Living Like A Local My Last Days in Italy

For ten days I had the opportunity to live like a local in the outskirts of Rome, Italy. I loved it, especially after I figured how to board and pay my fare on the bus and connect with the metro to visit places in Rome’s city center. Metro station for Line C is new, as of 2025, and while constructing it they discovered ruins and incorporated some of the finds at the new metro station! Walking past the Colosseum, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon and other places from past visits again was fun! Now I visited numerous churches and monuments during this visit, along with Villa Borghese and Vatican City!

But then I discovered places closer to where I was staying. Neighborhood walks were fun. Even in the outskirts of the city there were plenty of ruins and monuments to visit. I also enjoyed eating with friends at their home and seeing how locals work during the week and play on weekends. As a traveler we don’t often see this side of life, so I appreciated their generosity in allowing me a place to stay and their time with me.

These stones are Appian Way, built in 312 BCE. Can you imagine how many people have traveled on this highway!?!

I had a wonderful opportunity to travel about 5 hours from Rome where my grandfather originally came from. We visited where he was born and where he lived prior to his travel at age 19 to America. All I could think was my 12 hour plane ride, Rome, Italy to California, USA was nothing compared to the number of days he came by boat to New York City back in the early 1900’s! It reminds me that we are all from immigrants.

I am fortune to travel and wish to see the world before I cannot. People I talk with during my travel, inform me of different ideas, share common pleasures with travel, invite me for a cup of espresso, and/or recommend a place not to be missed in my travel plan. I learn about their home, career, joys and frustrations. We’re all on this planet with varying backgrounds, but the joy of safe travel around the world is a common desire. Sixteen thousand miles later, through Albania, Montenegro, Bosnia – Herzegovina, Croatia, Slovenia, Greece and Italy, I am home! Home, sweet home … another joy in my life!

Thank you to all who made my travel educational, safe and fun!

Where in the world will I travel to next?

New Country: Vatican City!

It’s my third day of riding buses and metro in Rome, Italy with my phone to pay as I enter each! I’m on my way to Vatican City, an independent country of 109 acres, with population of 800 … only clergy and guards, ruled by a monarch, the Pope of the Roman Catholic Church. Currently Pope Leo XIV is the first to hold American and Peruvian citizenship in that position.

However, before I get there, when I think I’ve got the hang of it all, the “tap and go” machine on the bus is not working. While researching bus transportation for this trip, there is info about being sure to pay when you enter. If an inspector ever boards the bus, they can scan your phone or see your physical ticket to know if you have paid. If you did not, there is a hefty fine.

So I asked a traveler, what do they do? He said the driver should say machine doesn’t work, or you can download an app to pay there, or hope an inspector doesn’t board. Ok I lucked out, no inspector came on! The traveler also mentioned buses will have machines not working on 1 in 3 buses. For me, this was 1 in 5! Not bad; I’ll see what happens at the end of my day.

My guided tour was the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel and St Peter’s Basilica. It all was unbelievably beautiful!! And the public only sees a fraction of what the church actually owns.

The Vatican’s Museum is a series of galleries each with different themes. No photography is allowed in the Sistine Chapel and while there we are to be silent. An announcement was made every so often to remind people of that. St Peter’s Basilica is simply huge and took over 100 years to build to completion. Michelangelo designed the double-shelled dome but it was completed after his death.

Tickets are needed for entry to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel, not for St Peter’s Basilica, the largest one in the world! All require entry through their security checks. Be sure your clothing is appropriate for entry into the basilica, so read their rules to know what is expected. 

Here are photos which really don’t show the magnificence of it all. But I’ll try:

Vatican Museum’s Round room with mosaic floor
L’Apollo del Belvedere; here since 1508
Created with silk and wool, his eyes will follow you as you walk by.
Looking toward main alter at St Peter’s Basilica
Pieta. I saw this at NY World’s Fair in the 60’s. It was the only time this masterpiece left the Vatican. Michelangelo created this in in 1498-1499; the only piece he ever signed. I loved seeing this original work again!
Looking up at ceiling of St Peter’s Basilica
Looking out onto St Peter’s Square where there can be 150,000 people attending mass!
Pope John XXIII was
beatified 2000 by Pope John Paul II and canonized by Pope Francis in 2014… on the same day as Pope John Paul II.

If interested at all, tour the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel and St Peter’s Basilica to see all in person! Photos simply do not convey the beauty of the works! By the way, it is a myth that Michelangelo laid on his back got 4.5 years to paint the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel! My guide explained he built a curb Ed scaffolding to match the curvature of the ceiling. And it was at a height so that at all spots he could stand up with his arm extended, paintbrush in hand could paint at same level. Dripping paint in his eyes would cause eye damage; he was not laying down! And now you too know!

I’ll be back in a few days after I spend time in the countryside!

Borghese Legacy in Rome; Part 2 of 3

The Borghese Gallery is an elegant palace and worldwide famous art museum with exceptional paintings by artists/sculptors, such as Caravaggio, Bernini and Raphael. Did I know any of this before now? No, an advantage of travel … often learning something new!

A couple of days prior, I visited the villa’s gardens, about one-quarter the size of NYC’s Central Park and third largest park in Rome. This large green space of trees has statues, monuments and plenty of quiet, shady places to sit. Or choose a bench nearby a musician … one was a saxophonist, further down the path an accordionist. A couple of artists with ink and paper, another with watercolor. I loved it!

My favorite place to sit at the Borghese gardens.
Monuments throughout
Other places to sit away from main path.
Secret Garden on the right, but area allowed no entry while work is being done.
Borghese Galleria, Rome, Italy

The villa/galleria was never a residence from what I understand. It was Cardinal Scipione Borghese, the nephew of Pope Paul V (reign 1605–1621) who collected works and had favorite artists. On my guided tour I discover a new name: Caravaggio. (A few days later another person points out his work to me at a basilica.) Yes, now I see Caravaggio’s use of light!

Caravaggio’s Saint Jerome

Fortunately I used the galleria’s official website, before my visit, to be prepared in knowing some of the famous sculptures and paintings. I had come to truly appreciate Bernini’s sculptures! No doubt any individual who loves art and history puts this place on their itinerary.

Bernini’s The Truth What I discovered while looking closer, it was not a finished piece!
Fingers are not done. Amazing how sculptor creates from a block of marble!

For many decades works were collected. But the family became bankrupt in the 19th century, so the Italian state owns it, all of it, and opened it all to the public in 1902! What a save! Here’s a few more photos, but nothing compared to what is there. Visit if you are interested in art!

Raphael’s work
Bust of Cardinal Scipione Borghese who started and collected for the family.
Many beautiful rooms!

Tomorrow a new country, Vatican City!

Rome, Italy: Part 1 of 3

The list of what to see when I am in Rome never seems to end! During the last 25 years I have visited the MAJOR monuments, ruins and statues. Now it was time to walk the Garbatella neighborhood away from the touristy areas. It was a nice change of pace. However, I still had museums to see!

On my way to Leonardo da Vinci Museum, I could not miss the massive Monument honoring Victor Emanuel II who was the first king of unified Italy. Nearby, I hiked steps to the entrance of the Basilica of Santa Maria in Aracoeli. The staircase dates back to 1398 on Capitoline Hill. The church is ornate! I also stopped at the Basilica of Saint Andrea della Valle. I had no idea this Baroque Church has the 2nd largest dome in Rome in height and diameter, only after Saint Peter’s Basilica!

A massive monument! ToVictor Emanuel II
There I am at the bottom of stairs to Basilica of Santa Maria in Aracoeli taking this photo… soon on my way up, step by step!
Inside! Beautiful, worth the trek up the steps!
Ornate.

And another basilica….

Basilica of Saint Andrea della Valle
Looking up to the second largest dome in Rome.

I love da Vinci’s work! Leonardo was a man ahead of his time! There was no subject called science in his day. He studied nature: the flight of birds, the movement of water and with an engineering mind solved problems. This museum displayed many of his inventions, sketches and notes plus there were interactive exhibits!

He made floats for walking on water!
Worm screw
Armored tank designed to be powered by 8 men working a set of gears connected to wheels.

Leonardo worked with ball bearings, pulleys and springs systems while thinking how to move sand and stones and to press olives; just some examples. He studied ballistics, cannons and an idea for an armored tank. Despite those studies he was a pacifist and thought war a “beastly madness.”

Tomorrow… the Borghese family…an Italian noble family from Siena… relocated to Rome in the 16th century.

Cooking Greek Food in Athens! Part 3 of 3

Time to cook Greek food! What no pasta? Of course not, and that is why I decided to attend a cooking class in Athens, Greece! Here was my opportunity to cook milk pie for dessert, spinach pie for starter, moussaka, Greek salad and tzatziki.

We had 4 wines; sparkling wine while we cooked, white and/or red as we ate and a dessert wine with the milk pie which is similar to a creme brûlée. We started our lesson with milk pie since it needed to bake. I must say all the recipes were easy to make … and maybe I shall try to cook them when I am home!

Milk pie with sugar and cinnamon on top, delicious!

Next we made phyllo, or filo, dough for our spinach pie. We were making individual servings. Despite my dough being very thin, it had more dough than I would want because I love the spinach within! Just need more practice with the dough!

Spinach pie! Time to bake!

I was most interested in making moussaka. I love seeing the layers…potatoes, eggplant, ground meat and béchamel on top! plus, wanted to learn how to make béchamel sauce. We had the eggplant and potatoes prepared for us so we could layer them in, along with the ground beef, but we cooked the béchamel sauce. It’s easy enough to try on my own someday.

Potatoes and eggplant prepared ahead for us.
Moussaka, individual serving. Can see layers once you eat.

Finally we prepared Greek salad… no lettuce, but delicious tomatoes…and tzatziki sauce… that was easy to make! All 15 of us sat down to our meal to eat what we made; I heard no complaints as we loved each thing we prepared. It was a fun, informative class!

Each of us took turns cooking with the chef’s help!

And then I wondered, what’s the difference between souvlaki and a gyro? It’s all about how the meat is prepared. Grilled meat on skewer means it is souvlaki. Sliced meat from a vertical rotisserie means it is a gyro! Ok, great learning adventure in Athens with its history and food!

Walk to Eat in Athens Greece, Part 2 of 3.

As Greeks talk of the Mediterranean diet, I seem to see a huge number of fried food and delicious sweets! So I tried to balance the calories from my daily food intake with those calories I hoped to burn off walking. Not sure I’m succeeding, but trying counts, right?

I walked more than 5 miles to see neighborhoods beyond Athens’ city center: Koukaki and Plaka. Each is reached after walking through touristy streets with shops. While in Koukaki area, I visited the National Museum of Contemporary Art. There is an entrance fee and reduced rate for 70+ aged people. I am unsure at times about contemporary art, but kudos to artists who can create this type of art! Here was work from one artist:

Artist did work with fabric and human form.

The changing of the guard happens on the hour at Syntagma Square. The “Evzones” are a special unit of the Greek Army known as the Presidential Guard. They have deliberate marching movements while they change positions in front of the Monument to Unknown Soldiers in front of the Parliament Building. (I would love to know how it was decided to have pompoms on their shoes.) The monument is dedicated to all unidentified Greek soldiers who died in battle.

The change takes about 10 minutes. It occurs every hour and in those uniforms and this heat, I think they want to change!

While walking to Varvakios Central Market, I stopped for loukoumades. Fried dough with honey and cinnamon, “the Greek Way”. I have now spoiled any lunch idea of fresh grilled fish at the central market. Few cafes are available, but it is mostly freshly butchered fish, pork, chicken and beef throughout the place. Another area has fresh fruits and vegetables. 

Loukoumades with honey and cinnamon. On my street food tour the next day I’ll see them as fried donuts.
Here they are!
One of the central market areas.
Look at the size of the avocados!

A stop at Kostas was on my list for a pork souvlaki. This place has been here since 1950 so why not give it a go! There was a line that moved slowly (waited almost 30 minutes) as individual orders are prepared. It was worth the wait; fresh tomatoes, tender skewered pork, yogurt, and delicious pita bread. One was good for a take-away lunch for me. Do not plan to sit inside as I think there are only 4 seats.

Pork souvlaki
Greek Chicken Gyros with Tzatziki and fries… quite different as we ate these on the food tour, but all delicious! I did take the fries out though; I don’t think they’re needed.

The next day I walked throughout the National Garden. Upon my arrival I saw a desert tortoise! This walk was important for me to listen and look for birds, see the garden, lakes, plants and animals and to once again burn some calories before my street food tour!

My welcome to the garden!
Plenty of places to sit or paths to walk or run! Lots of shade and birds!

Finally the street food tour. I had a good time with our guide and 8 other people. So….much …..food…..!!! I’m just going with photos here and will not include all the food choices! Plus we had a wine and some other alcoholic drink. I discovered I like Greek coffee, the beans were from Brazil. New to me was the heating of the water in hot sand! I’ll have to research that. Anyway, photos below and the last blog post of Athens will be tomorrow.

Bougatsa… loved this!
Making Greek coffee
Greek salad with baked cheese
Fried zucchini balls with yogurt
Eggplant
Smashed potatoes with olive oil and garlic. Other plate was baked stuffed peppers with cheese.
Fried calamari
Big beans
Split pea with parsley

And there were olives, olive oil and bread, sausage, Greek yogurt with honey, meatballs and plenty to enjoy! And then I took another walk!:)

Athens, Greece: Arrival and Acropolis Hill; Part 1 of 3

Another new country coming up, Greece! East side of Italy was visited and a flight or ferry from there would be options to get to Greece.

Now to Athens, Greece

Upon my arrival in Athens, Greece, I immediately saw the benefit of having pre-booked a car/driver for hire. The driver picked me up at the airport and drove me about 45 minutes to central Athens to my hotel. There are taxis everywhere and people trying to get a taxi. Pre-booking was slick! So I would recommend booking a driver from airport to city.

Anyway, Athens is crazy busy like other big cities! My welcome dinner was at a friend’s recommendation. The waiter delivered olives and their tsipouro, a welcoming distilled alcoholic shot! Like raki in Albania, but this was smoother. Kebab, olives and beer… yes, I arrived!

I love olives!
Kebab

My time on Acropolis Hill and at the Acropolis Museum consumed many hours. Our guide was wonderful providing direction, information and how to pace ourselves through it all. There is so much in the museum I could still be there, but I had enough.

Here are photos from the day, but know they do not give the ruins the justice they deserve. It is remarkable to see ruins, plus the work others continue to put into the protection and restoration of the temples. I can only provide photos; enjoy.

Dionysus, god of wine, Theater
Parthenon, columns lean slightly in!
Dionysus at corner of Parthenon
Erechtheion built in 5th Century BC on top of remains from structure destroyed 60 years earlier by Persians.
Side view of Erechtheion

The Acropolis Museum is an archeological site-specific museum. The architect chose to build above the ruins. Inside the museum are 3 floors of Ancient Greek structures, mythology and history. It’s a place that was amazing and yet I really only saw a fraction of it! But here was the ruin below:

I’ll be back in a day or so… have some food to eat and cook!

Towns Beyond Brindisi!

I joined a day tour to 3 hilltop towns beyond Brindisi. Advantages: meet other travelers, as I did. Two each from Canada, England, Germany, Spain and 1 from Brazil plus me. Guide plans itinerary and transportation, a nice break for a solo traveler. Disadvantage: when you want to leave a town, you’re on an itinerary for 3 towns and other people. Patience … and life goes on! Fortunately a couple of us enjoyed our time together and could talk and laugh through the day.

First town, Alberobello, was most interesting to see the trulli, the stone conical roofed huts, that are most numerous in the area in this town. They were originally built as a shelter when farming, etc and eventually people added rooms. Strict regulations are now enforced in this UNESCO town. Half can be tourist shops and other half for residential living in and/or B&B accommodations. Renovation of a trullo (plural is trulli) must be by a certified person who knows what to do with this dry stone construction. I noticed some trullo for sale but I imagined a larger cost would be in renovation!

Trullo

Wished we could see a few…

Inside a staged trullo
The non-touristy side of town!

We did an olive oil tasting. I must say every olive oil presenter has an interesting way to talk about this oil. Here he said don’t “paint your food” with the oil as he demonstrated numerous circular motions. (Like one was pouring a quarter cup of oil on whatever!) Instead one should see, smell and then small taste of the oil with only a few drops of oil on your food. If you need more than that it is not the best olive oil! Hmmm…will have to take more notice of my olive oil.

Onto Locorotondo, a smaller hilltop town. Stopped at a couple of churches. Church of San Nicolas … prompted Santa Claus!?!

Church of San Nicolas

Last town on our tour was Ostuni. Its buildings are all whitewashed, a requirement, and has its place in history as do the other towns. Our guide studied it all and attempted to have all the history make sense for us. Quite honestly though, it was a very warm day and I had been overwhelmed with history! We returned to Brindisi and I enjoyed a walk along the waterfront, then dinner with a glass of red wine. A previous night a piano player was nearby, not at this place, darn! Overall a good day, but important now to relax! It is the only way to maintain a healthy pace when traveling.

Do Visit Quiet,Windy Brindisi, Italy

Immediately you notice how quiet Brindisi is! Then you’ll feel a breeze, nice. Wind flows onto this coastal town and at times it is gusting. I’ve given up wearing a hat because of the wind! Plenty of statues, monuments, churches and places to eat. I like the pedestrian-only areas and there are many benches for people-watching time. I tried sketching there too, but the wind makes it difficult.

Photos from my wandering:

Monument to the Italian Sailor in background; one of a few fishermen in foreground.
Duomo di San Giovanni
Inside of Duomo di San Giovanni

Cooked pasta then swirled around in a cheese bowl is definitely a tourist trap, but why not see it done! Meal was so-so.

Pasta swirled around in cheese bowl.

Pasta-making class: My habit is to arrive early to activities. What I discovered in Italy is to arrive on time. I fear I have flustered my hosts when arriving early! I happen to be the only one at this pasta-making class. The chef’s family grows all the vegetables. The female chef’s goal is to not only teach pasta-making but also to incorporate vegetables. She had a photographic area showing the generations this family had lived and started a winery right here in their home! I also discovered she works with Down’s syndrome young people so they learn appropriate cleaning, cooking and/or farming skills. So besides her classes, the front area is a vegetable shop and other rooms are her restaurant all in the space that was her grandfather’s winery.

Now to make pasta! Very nice table set-up with all my supplies; we add water to the semolina and when ready, this took me a bit of time, begin to knead the dough! Long story short, we made different shaped pastas. I was excited to learn how to make orecchiette! It’ll be decades before I could ever make that pasta as fast as the women in Trieste! Here are my final products:

Took me forever to make each orecchiette!!!
Some other pasta shapes and with cauliflower for this meal!
Thankfully I had help!

The meal was delicious as were the white and rosé sparkling wines! Time for a walk, then to prepare for tomorrow’s day trip to 3 local towns. See you there!

Bari: yes, More Pasta-making! Part 2 of 2.

Did you notice food tours and pasta-making classes are my favorite activities when I travel? Yes, especially as a solo traveler! They are opportunities to interact with other travelers, eat good food and learn new things about the area that I’ll continue to wander around in the upcoming days.

But first I wanted to walk away from city center, along the coast and have a good appetite for my pasta-making and eating later in the day. It’s a beautiful sunny day and always with a wind; a joy of being on a coast! I discover a 10km race is happening and they too are going my way! So I felt like all of us were on a walk-run activity. I cheered them on, even as I noticed no sidewalk spectators did, and also offered to take group photos as needed. Never planned any of that interaction, but it was fun! I turned around at their 4km sign to head back to city center.

A beautiful day for a walk.
And for some to run… or walk.
Or parasail… others were sailing and surfing!
And I observed this egret and some black-winged stilts on a thin canal.

Later in the day was pasta-making time! This pasta-making class was with 14 other people at a restaurant! We made tiramisu, a couple of pastas with a pasta-making machine, and then sat down to eat! We started with prosecco at a fine dining table. The restaurant doesn’t open till 7:30PM so we’ll be out just before then.

Restaurant style!
Equipment for all!

We made the tiramisu and pastas with all levels of success. I think I’m catching on how to use the machine. Our chef only spoke Italian so we had a translator. My fellow participants were from Romania, Germany, Denmark, Tunisia and 2 other people from USA.

I loved the Primitivo wine with my meal and we finished it all with limoncello! Tomorrow morning I have time to walk and relax before catching a train to Brindisi.