Another new country coming up, Greece! East side of Italy was visited and a flight or ferry from there would be options to get to Greece.
Now to Athens, Greece
Upon my arrival in Athens, Greece, I immediately saw the benefit of having pre-booked a car/driver for hire. The driver picked me up at the airport and drove me about 45 minutes to central Athens to my hotel. There are taxis everywhere and people trying to get a taxi. Pre-booking was slick! So I would recommend booking a driver from airport to city.
Anyway, Athens is crazy busy like other big cities! My welcome dinner was at a friend’s recommendation. The waiter delivered olives and their tsipouro, a welcoming distilled alcoholic shot! Like raki in Albania, but this was smoother. Kebab, olives and beer… yes, I arrived!
I love olives!Kebab
My time on Acropolis Hill and at the Acropolis Museum consumed many hours. Our guide was wonderful providing direction, information and how to pace ourselves through it all. There is so much in the museum I could still be there, but I had enough.
Here are photos from the day, but know they do not give the ruins the justice they deserve. It is remarkable to see ruins, plus the work others continue to put into the protection and restoration of the temples. I can only provide photos; enjoy.
Dionysus, god of wine, TheaterParthenon, columns lean slightly in!Dionysus at corner of Parthenon Erechtheion built in 5th Century BC on top of remains from structure destroyed 60 years earlier by Persians.Side view of Erechtheion
The Acropolis Museum is an archeological site-specific museum. The architect chose to build above the ruins. Inside the museum are 3 floors of Ancient Greek structures, mythology and history. It’s a place that was amazing and yet I really only saw a fraction of it! But here was the ruin below:
I’ll be back in a day or so… have some food to eat and cook!
I joined a day tour to 3 hilltop towns beyond Brindisi. Advantages: meet other travelers, as I did. Two each from Canada, England, Germany, Spain and 1 from Brazil plus me. Guide plans itinerary and transportation, a nice break for a solo traveler. Disadvantage: when you want to leave a town, you’re on an itinerary for 3 towns and other people. Patience … and life goes on! Fortunately a couple of us enjoyed our time together and could talk and laugh through the day.
First town, Alberobello, was most interesting to see the trulli, the stone conical roofed huts, that are most numerous in the area in this town. They were originally built as a shelter when farming, etc and eventually people added rooms. Strict regulations are now enforced in this UNESCO town. Half can be tourist shops and other half for residential living in and/or B&B accommodations. Renovation of a trullo (plural is trulli) must be by a certified person who knows what to do with this dry stone construction. I noticed some trullo for sale but I imagined a larger cost would be in renovation!
Trullo
Wished we could see a few…
Inside a staged trulloThe non-touristy side of town!
We did an olive oil tasting. I must say every olive oil presenter has an interesting way to talk about this oil. Here he said don’t “paint your food” with the oil as he demonstrated numerous circular motions. (Like one was pouring a quarter cup of oil on whatever!) Instead one should see, smell and then small taste of the oil with only a few drops of oil on your food. If you need more than that it is not the best olive oil! Hmmm…will have to take more notice of my olive oil.
Onto Locorotondo, a smaller hilltop town. Stopped at a couple of churches. Church of San Nicolas … prompted Santa Claus!?!
Church of San Nicolas
Last town on our tour was Ostuni. Its buildings are all whitewashed, a requirement, and has its place in history as do the other towns. Our guide studied it all and attempted to have all the history make sense for us. Quite honestly though, it was a very warm day and I had been overwhelmed with history! We returned to Brindisi and I enjoyed a walk along the waterfront, then dinner with a glass of red wine. A previous night a piano player was nearby, not at this place, darn! Overall a good day, but important now to relax! It is the only way to maintain a healthy pace when traveling.
Did you notice food tours and pasta-making classes are my favorite activities when I travel? Yes, especially as a solo traveler! They are opportunities to interact with other travelers, eat good food and learn new things about the area that I’ll continue to wander around in the upcoming days.
But first I wanted to walk away from city center, along the coast and have a good appetite for my pasta-making and eating later in the day. It’s a beautiful sunny day and always with a wind; a joy of being on a coast! I discover a 10km race is happening and they too are going my way! So I felt like all of us were on a walk-run activity. I cheered them on, even as I noticed no sidewalk spectators did, and also offered to take group photos as needed. Never planned any of that interaction, but it was fun! I turned around at their 4km sign to head back to city center.
A beautiful day for a walk.And for some to run… or walk.Or parasail… others were sailing and surfing!And I observed this egret and some black-winged stilts on a thin canal.
Later in the day was pasta-making time! This pasta-making class was with 14 other people at a restaurant! We made tiramisu, a couple of pastas with a pasta-making machine, and then sat down to eat! We started with prosecco at a fine dining table. The restaurant doesn’t open till 7:30PM so we’ll be out just before then.
Restaurant style!Equipment for all!
We made the tiramisu and pastas with all levels of success. I think I’m catching on how to use the machine. Our chef only spoke Italian so we had a translator. My fellow participants were from Romania, Germany, Denmark, Tunisia and 2 other people from USA.
I loved the Primitivo wine with my meal and we finished it all with limoncello! Tomorrow morning I have time to walk and relax before catching a train to Brindisi.
My longest train ride is happening right now as I head to Bari from Bologna. My goal is to visit the southeastern coast of Italy for a first time; but what a long 6 hour train ride!
Finally arrived, checked in at my lodging and off to the waterfront with its couple of ports and plenty of boats! As one looks east from Bari, Italy to Albania, which you cannot see, just know it is an 8-10 hour ferry ride across the Adriatic Sea. Albania is where I started this trip 6 weeks ago!
Anyway, I’m here now to see this city and explore the food! Walking the lungomare, a walkway along the coast, I stopped in at Teatro Margherita where an art exhibit was happening. Various materials were used by the artists to create their work; here are some:
Sofia Loren created with various media
These artists are talented!
Bari’s “old town” was crowded with people as I walked the narrow places and was near Castello Svevo. It was a castle built around 1132 by Norman King Roger II. I thought it a fortress, it is huge! No, it was a castle in its day and now a museum.
Plenty of churches in this town! Huge basilicas … amazing construction when one thinks of the century they were built!! Basilica of Saint Nicholas (San Nicola), houses his relics brought from present day Turkey. It was consecrated in 1197 and is a pilgrimage site for Catholics and Orthodox Christians. Apparently he is the inspiration behind Santa Claus.
At San Nicola, a gilded wooden ceiling!!
Cathedral of Saint Sabinus (San Sabino) does have an entrance fee allowing one to also visit the museum and see archeological ruins. Churches were built one upon another through the centuries. I was amazed to see some of the old mosaics floors many feet below the current church.
No way to capture the size and beauty of this church!Ruins of an older church underneath this one.Notice mosaics on this underground floor!
Of course I joined a street food tour! Wherever I am in the world I love knowing about the food of the region. Plus each local guide puts their spin on the food so I always learn more and eat in good company! A panzerotto is similar to a fried calzone but only with tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. It washes down nicely with a glass of Primitivo wine! Next we had focaccia with delicious olive oil, tomatoes and olives, yum! Our orecchiette pasta with tomato sauce was okay, but I loved the one served in olive oil. Italians cook their pasta al dente, cooked to be firm to the bite, supposedly to help our digestive system. Gelato was our final tasting! What I learned new on this tour is that the gelato should not be out in swirls for all to see, but to stay within their metal bins to retain the best tasting gelato and served from there!
Panzerotto cut in half.Orecchiette
This woman could make that pasta with here eyes closed!
Wow!
Other photos are below. I did not try an octopus sandwich. I’ve eaten octopus, but apparently there is a place here with the best sandwich! Tomorrow I want to see a beach and then I have a cooking class! That will be part 2… Caio!
Best gelato and they have a place in Manhattan, New York City!Wind and downpour just as this bride stepped into San Nicola Church.Always wander when you travel!How often will you see red peppers that size? Keep wandering!
We drove south the first part of our day to a seaside town, Rovinj. Upon our arrival, we see houses along the coastline and then on top of the hill is Church of Saint Euphemia. People could truly jump out of their window into the water below, if they wished Probably not, but the homes are straight up from the coast!
Rovinj is on the coastline!
Later in the day we did stop in the church. The steeple also functions as a weather vane. Here too is plenty of history.
Church of Saint EuphemiaChurch
We walked around this town and fishing port. Stopped by the fresh market too.
Olives, olive oil, honey and more!Fresh fruit and vegetables
Fourteen islands are just offshore from here, some of thousand plus islands off Croatia. Rovinj does have pedestrian-only area and plenty of shops. We enjoyed a cappuccino as we looked out on the water in sunshine.
Comfortable place to relax and sip any drink!
After lunch we drove to Cattunar Winery. It is beautifully located! We had an informative tour of their harvest and bottling process, plus to see their cellar with some very old wines. I love red wine; however, I did like the Malvazija white wine the Istrian peninsula is known for. Of course, we had delicious snacks with the 2 wines and a third sweet wine! Since the red wine has more tannins it was served with cheese and black truffles on the bread. What was not to enjoy!
White wine was very good!Loved the red wine too!Black truffles and cheese on bread.
I’ll be back tomorrow as it is our last day on Istrian peninsula and last day of tour before I am off as a solo traveler.
Here are a few more photos from this day:
Winery, vineyard in beautiful area!Notice pointed ends of this boat which is only found here, called a batana.Homes
While we drove toward Postojna Cave in Slovenia, I thought I was in upstate New York! The rolling hillsides with varied shades of green remind me of upstate NY’s countryside. But in the distance the treeless, sharp-edged 8K to 9,000 foot rock of the Julian Alps is seen and I realize I am in Slovenia!
Postojna Cave is a must see! I have been in many caves and this one is huge and beautiful in its own way. It is the only one I have ever entered by railway. The small railcar takes you on a 15 minute, 3.7km ride through the cave; duck your head if you are tall person! Then you walk 1.2km through the cave looking at a variety of cave formations. There is an audio guide that explains the karst formations you are looking at which is very helpful. This cave is huge and all I could wonder about is who discovered this and what a find!!
Walkway surface in cave felt very safe.At the start of rail car ride… soon to enter cave. Staff are very well organized at this popular site. It is not a UNESCO site, but a nearby one of 4 other caves is. This cave may be a future UNESCO site.
Plus in the cave, there is a sightless, whitish with red tufts amphibian only found here called an olm. They can go without food for 10 years, live for 100 years and is the largest animal in the cave. Legends abound about this “baby dragon”. They had a few in an aquarium while we were in the cave so we could see them. However, no photos could be taken to protect them. This photo is of a video display the info board provided.
An olm is a cave salamander about 8-12 inches long.
No photos really capture the cave, but here are some. I’ll continue with Slovenia tomorrow.
We stayed at a “living history” farmstead in Karanac, a small farming village. Each property has a narrow front yard with a long depth of land. This is to their advantage since their property tax bill is determined by the frontage measurement. I liked the fact they have the road, then a strip of grass, sidewalk and then the front of the home. It makes for a spaciousness in the area even though this is a rural area already.
Road, grass then home.
Upon our arrival we made cheese for the following morning’s breakfast. A plain cheese and the other was with dill and garlic. Learning the cheese-making process and eating our final products was wonderful.
Final cheese product the next day
The son is 8th generation on this land. He showed us the vegetable garden for home use and pointed out the chickens, quail, fruit trees, etc that they produce many products to barter and/or sell. The family works hard throughout the year. All is organic and they rotate their crops to keep their land healthy too.
Our cooking opportunities came in making fry bread for breakfast and learning how to make goulash in clay pots for lunch. All the food, consisting of meats, vegetables, cheeses, jams and bread, was delicious!
The mother of the household is a master at stenciling. With the advent of wallpaper, fewer people need to stencil an entire wall; however, with her work you would never realize this is not wallpaper. She has collected many rollers with patterns and is very well known for her stencil work!
Our lunch was enjoyed at another family’s home. A few of us had lunch with a couple. They have 4 children and work in a nearby town. We talked about taxes, healthcare, elder care and various other things. Interestingly, with each birth there is 3 years of leave allowed so this woman has maintained her work position even with the birth of 4 children. Yes, a large percentage from salary goes to these benefits. While they wish they could be lower, they do appreciate the ability to have the paid time, even if it be 70%, to provide care as needed.
The next day we have a long ride to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. I’ll be back in a few days!
Bosnia-Herzegovina (B-H) has a complicated history as told to us by our guide as we drove from Dubrovnik, Croatia to B-H. Our drive was slightly longer, due to the fact the first border crossing was not possible. Their new system to process our passports, finger prints and photo was not working. As a result we had to drive further through Croatia to another border checkpoint.
We made a few stops. One was at an oyster farm. Mussels are grown abundantly. You’ll see them in the waters, but I had not known that some were oysters. We saw the process and of course ate a deliciously fresh oyster!
OystersReady to eat!
Next stop was at an old bridge in Mostar. This 16th century bridge of Ottoman-Turkish architecture spans the Neretva River which divided the town into Muslim and Croat sections. The bridge was destroyed in 1993 as the former Yugoslavia broke up. In 2004 the town and bridge were restored and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The bridge is a symbol of reconciliation and continued peace for the region.
Minerals in water made it a shade of green!Mostar’s old bridge
Of course we had a delicious lunch and Bosnian coffee; it is like Turkish coffee.
I did need a sugar cube; strong coffee!
Our long transfer day of driving finally ended in Sarajevo! The only thing I knew about this place was the 1984 Winter Olympics. I’ll get that visit in tomorrow. More about the 3 presidents when I understand the history.
Our hotel is on the Dubrovnik Riviera, a stunning spot as we look out from our cove to the Adriatic Sea. We are a 20 minute bus ride from “Old Town”. A local guide spoke about the 13th and 14th century history of the Old Town area and more currently about what was destroyed in the 1991-92 war. In the olden days 4,000 people lived within the city walls, now only about 900 people. Their economy relies on tourism so visitors will see many shops and churches, museums, restaurants. I took advantage of the opportunity to walk the entire rampart/fortified wall. We are not here at peak season, but it is busy here with tourists. Since it is a UNESCO World Heritage site, only 2 cruise ships per day are allowed. Game of Thrones was filmed here prompting an increase in tourists.
Side street within city walls
We visited the War Museum toward Srd Mountain. A local speaker, who was 24 years old at the start of the Homeland War in 1991, shared her experience with us. She recalled the sporadic military attacks and then the 3 months: October -December when there was no water or electricity. The September sporadic bombing probably was purposeful. The world did not know what was happening to the people especially in Dubrovnik, but then the destruction was more frequent and destructive in the “old town”. Plenty of history here and if you want to know more and are visiting, I would recommend a visit to the War Museum.
Looking down on the “Old Town”Signage, videos to learn the history at War Museum
Cable car ride back to Old Town. I walked the Jesuit Stairs, a Baroque staircase consisting of 136 stone steps, connecting Gundulić Square to the Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola. Stopped in to say a prayer then joined a couple of my fellow travelers for a beer at Buza Bar. Beautiful view from the bar as it is on a rocky hillside!
Jesuit StepsInside the churchAt Buza Bar you can walk further down the rocky side.
Dinner was at a rural Konavle region outside of Dubrovnik. A fun way to end the day! We tried his cherry brandy… delicious! Learned about olive oil … and reminded to only use cold pressed extra virgin olive oil. Also do not cook/heat olive oil! Sauté whatever with another oil, then put olive oil on the cooked food. Cooking olive oil destroys the healthy benefits of it! Night ended with us singing and dancing after a delicious meal: cheeses, prosciutto, bread, olive oil, fish, potatoes, salad, and dessert of a fig and apple pie. We had plenty of his wine! I drank his red wine: 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon… wonderful!
Owner at farmstead and his cherry brandy … so delicious!Music and dancing… a fun night!
We are off to Bosnia-Herzegovina tomorrow, so I’ll be back in a few days with a post!
Montenegro is a small Balkan country surrounded by the Adriatic Sea and all these countries: Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Kosovo and Albania! (Montenegro is the size of Connecticut, for my USA readers to have a sense of its size.) We drove along the coastline during our pre-trip days of adventure in Albania to Dubrovnik, Croatia to meet our main trip fellow travelers. The Adriatic Sea has so many beautiful and different blues!
Perast, Montenegro
We returned to Montenegro now to spend a day in the towns of Perast and Kotor. I’ll leave the photos to show how the landscape climbs up from the water’s edge to mountaintops! Loved every view! There were clouds and rain throughout this day, but we saw great views when the sun shined!
Perast, Montenegro
We took a boat ride from Perast, around Our Lady of the Rocks, to Kotor, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Lady of the Rocks is a man-made island. A fisherman, according to legend, found an icon of the Holy Mother of God after a shipwreck. As seamen passed by on their big boats they dropped stones and eventually built a church in 1630. As we went by the island, each of us threw in a small stone.
Our Lady of the Rocks
Old Town Kotor is a medieval walled town at the end of the Bay of Kotor surrounded by mountains. We could see how it was not destroyed as were other towns, such as Dubrovnik. A local guide pointed out a few of the remaining numerous churches. People do live still within these walls.
Fortress higher on the mountainOrthodox Church within city wallNotice the clear water!Only 2 cruise ships per day allowed. I first thought it a building!
I’ll be back in a few days with posts. Till then, traveling on!
