Black Canyon at Gunnison National Park is a place I never visited. So when east coast friends mentioned visiting this Colorado national park, I thought well why not meet them there! Wow, that was a good decision!
We drove the south rim road at this national park after a stop at the visitor center which survived a 2025 wildfire here. From the rim’s vista points, it is easy to understand why this park is called the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. Looking down the sheer, black canyon walls at nearly 2 billion year old rock, you will eventually see a river 1800 feet below! The walls are massive and it is amazing to realize the river had cut through the uplift’s core of rock a couple of million years ago.
View from south rim road
From Sunset viewpoint
While still on the south rim road, we saw three big horn sheep walk from the rim, across the road to another location.
We kept our distance from the wildlife.
They moved on!
We also drove the east portal road. There we read signage about the Gunnison Tunnel and diversion dam built between 1905 and 1909. Want to know about a major engineering project, I encourage you to read its history! We walked the road paralleling the Gunnison River which dead ends at Crystal Dam. Looking up on the massive rock walls was truly a different perspective!
Also notice the hazy sky from wildfire smoke coming from Utah, many miles away.
Picture Canyon Natural and Cultural Preserve in Flagstaff is a favorite hiking place. It is an urban park where the Northern Sinagua people had settled centuries ago and we still see hundreds of their rock carvings throughout the park.
Petroglyphs
While hiking the Tom Moody Trail, we passed a waterfall, rock carvings and a connector path to the Arizona Trail. On a recent hike, I noticed a plaque on a rock. I learned of the death of a guy I knew from bicycling in this area of Arizona: Jack Welch.
For me, Jack was the organizer for local mountain bike rides. We loved those rides! He knew the trails and the geology. I remember another time stopping at lava tubes in the area. Now I discover while reading the plaque, he was an advocate protecting this natural area and the 1,000 year old petroglyphs.
I am thankful for individuals who love nature and help to protect it. This preserve’s wildlife benefits as we do too. Here we can hike, cycle, bird watch, see history, enjoy this protected natural area and remember a fellow cyclist.
… and appreciative of every soldier who died protecting it and every person who votes as an active participant in our democracy. It takes effort from all of us … We Are The People …
For ten days I had the opportunity to live like a local in the outskirts of Rome, Italy. I loved it, especially after I figured how to board and pay my fare on the bus and connect with the metro to visit places in Rome’s city center. Metro station for Line C is new, as of 2025, and while constructing it they discovered ruins and incorporated some of the finds at the new metro station! Walking past the Colosseum, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon and other places from past visits again was fun! Now I visited numerous churches and monuments during this visit, along with Villa Borghese and Vatican City!
But then I discovered places closer to where I was staying. Neighborhood walks were fun. Even in the outskirts of the city there were plenty of ruins and monuments to visit. I also enjoyed eating with friends at their home and seeing how locals work during the week and play on weekends. As a traveler we don’t often see this side of life, so I appreciated their generosity in allowing me a place to stay and their time with me.
These stones are Appian Way, built in 312 BCE. Can you imagine how many people have traveled on this highway!?!
I had a wonderful opportunity to travel about 5 hours from Rome where my grandfather originally came from. We visited where he was born and where he lived prior to his travel at age 19 to America. All I could think was my 12 hour plane ride, Rome, Italy to California, USA was nothing compared to the number of days he came by boat to New York City back in the early 1900’s! It reminds me that we are all from immigrants.
I am fortune to travel and wish to see the world before I cannot. People I talk with during my travel, inform me of different ideas, share common pleasures with travel, invite me for a cup of espresso, and/or recommend a place not to be missed in my travel plan. I learn about their home, career, joys and frustrations. We’re all on this planet with varying backgrounds, but the joy of safe travel around the world is a common desire. Sixteen thousand miles later, through Albania, Montenegro, Bosnia – Herzegovina, Croatia, Slovenia, Greece and Italy, I am home! Home, sweet home … another joy in my life!
Thank you to all who made my travel educational, safe and fun!
It’s my third day of riding buses and metro in Rome, Italy with my phone to pay as I enter each! I’m on my way to Vatican City, an independent country of 109 acres, with population of 800 … only clergy and guards, ruled by a monarch, the Pope of the Roman Catholic Church. Currently Pope Leo XIV is the first to hold American and Peruvian citizenship in that position.
However, before I get there, when I think I’ve got the hang of it all, the “tap and go” machine on the bus is not working. While researching bus transportation for this trip, there is info about being sure to pay when you enter. If an inspector ever boards the bus, they can scan your phone or see your physical ticket to know if you have paid. If you did not, there is a hefty fine.
So I asked a traveler, what do they do? He said the driver should say machine doesn’t work, or you can download an app to pay there, or hope an inspector doesn’t board. Ok I lucked out, no inspector came on! The traveler also mentioned buses will have machines not working on 1 in 3 buses. For me, this was 1 in 5! Not bad; I’ll see what happens at the end of my day.
My guided tour was the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel and St Peter’s Basilica. It all was unbelievably beautiful!! And the public only sees a fraction of what the church actually owns.
The Vatican’s Museum is a series of galleries each with different themes. No photography is allowed in the Sistine Chapel and while there we are to be silent. An announcement was made every so often to remind people of that. St Peter’s Basilica is simply huge and took over 100 years to build to completion. Michelangelo designed the double-shelled dome but it was completed after his death.
Tickets are needed for entry to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel, not for St Peter’s Basilica, the largest one in the world! All require entry through their security checks. Be sure your clothing is appropriate for entry into the basilica, so read their rules to know what is expected.
Here are photos which really don’t show the magnificence of it all. But I’ll try:
Vatican Museum’s Round room with mosaic floorL’Apollo del Belvedere; here since 1508Created with silk and wool, his eyes will follow you as you walk by.Looking toward main alter at St Peter’s BasilicaPieta. I saw this at NY World’s Fair in the 60’s. It was the only time this masterpiece left the Vatican. Michelangelo created this in in 1498-1499; the only piece he ever signed. I loved seeing this original work again!Looking up at ceiling of St Peter’s BasilicaLooking out onto St Peter’s Square where there can be 150,000 people attending mass!Pope John XXIII was beatified 2000 by Pope John Paul II and canonized by Pope Francis in 2014… on the same day as Pope John Paul II.
If interested at all, tour the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel and St Peter’s Basilica to see all in person! Photos simply do not convey the beauty of the works! By the way, it is a myth that Michelangelo laid on his back got 4.5 years to paint the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel! My guide explained he built a curb Ed scaffolding to match the curvature of the ceiling. And it was at a height so that at all spots he could stand up with his arm extended, paintbrush in hand could paint at same level. Dripping paint in his eyes would cause eye damage; he was not laying down! And now you too know!
I’ll be back in a few days after I spend time in the countryside!
The Borghese Gallery is an elegant palace and worldwide famous art museum with exceptional paintings by artists/sculptors, such as Caravaggio, Bernini and Raphael. Did I know any of this before now? No, an advantage of travel … often learning something new!
A couple of days prior, I visited the villa’s gardens, about one-quarter the size of NYC’s Central Park and third largest park in Rome. This large green space of trees has statues, monuments and plenty of quiet, shady places to sit. Or choose a bench nearby a musician … one was a saxophonist, further down the path an accordionist. A couple of artists with ink and paper, another with watercolor. I loved it!
My favorite place to sit at the Borghese gardens.Monuments throughoutOther places to sit away from main path.Secret Garden on the right, but area allowed no entry while work is being done.Borghese Galleria, Rome, Italy
The villa/galleria was never a residence from what I understand. It was Cardinal Scipione Borghese, the nephew of Pope Paul V (reign 1605–1621) who collected works and had favorite artists. On my guided tour I discover a new name: Caravaggio. (A few days later another person points out his work to me at a basilica.) Yes, now I see Caravaggio’s use of light!
Caravaggio’s Saint Jerome
Fortunately I used the galleria’s official website, before my visit, to be prepared in knowing some of the famous sculptures and paintings. I had come to truly appreciate Bernini’s sculptures! No doubt any individual who loves art and history puts this place on their itinerary.
Bernini’s The Truth What I discovered while looking closer, it was not a finished piece!Fingers are not done. Amazing how sculptor creates from a block of marble!
For many decades works were collected. But the family became bankrupt in the 19th century, so the Italian state owns it, all of it, and opened it all to the public in 1902! What a save! Here’s a few more photos, but nothing compared to what is there. Visit if you are interested in art!
Raphael’s workBust of Cardinal Scipione Borghese who started and collected for the family.Many beautiful rooms!
The list of what to see when I am in Rome never seems to end! During the last 25 years I have visited the MAJOR monuments, ruins and statues. Now it was time to walk the Garbatella neighborhood away from the touristy areas. It was a nice change of pace. However, I still had museums to see!
On my way to Leonardo da Vinci Museum, I could not miss the massive Monument honoring Victor Emanuel II who was the first king of unified Italy. Nearby, I hiked steps to the entrance of the Basilica of Santa Maria in Aracoeli. The staircase dates back to 1398 on Capitoline Hill. The church is ornate! I also stopped at the Basilica of Saint Andrea della Valle. I had no idea this Baroque Church has the 2nd largest dome in Rome in height and diameter, only after Saint Peter’s Basilica!
A massive monument! ToVictor Emanuel IIThere I am at the bottom of stairs to Basilica of Santa Maria in Aracoeli taking this photo… soon on my way up, step by step!Inside! Beautiful, worth the trek up the steps!Ornate.
And another basilica….
Basilica of Saint Andrea della ValleLooking up to the second largest dome in Rome.
I love da Vinci’s work! Leonardo was a man ahead of his time! There was no subject called science in his day. He studied nature: the flight of birds, the movement of water and with an engineering mind solved problems. This museum displayed many of his inventions, sketches and notes plus there were interactive exhibits!
He made floats for walking on water!Worm screwArmored tank designed to be powered by 8 men working a set of gears connected to wheels.
Leonardo worked with ball bearings, pulleys and springs systems while thinking how to move sand and stones and to press olives; just some examples. He studied ballistics, cannons and an idea for an armored tank. Despite those studies he was a pacifist and thought war a “beastly madness.”
Tomorrow… the Borghese family…an Italian noble family from Siena… relocated to Rome in the 16th century.
Time to cook Greek food! What no pasta? Of course not, and that is why I decided to attend a cooking class in Athens, Greece! Here was my opportunity to cook milk pie for dessert, spinach pie for starter, moussaka, Greek salad and tzatziki.
We had 4 wines; sparkling wine while we cooked, white and/or red as we ate and a dessert wine with the milk pie which is similar to a creme brûlée. We started our lesson with milk pie since it needed to bake. I must say all the recipes were easy to make … and maybe I shall try to cook them when I am home!
Milk pie with sugar and cinnamon on top, delicious!
Next we made phyllo, or filo, dough for our spinach pie. We were making individual servings. Despite my dough being very thin, it had more dough than I would want because I love the spinach within! Just need more practice with the dough!
Spinach pie! Time to bake!
I was most interested in making moussaka. I love seeing the layers…potatoes, eggplant, ground meat and béchamel on top! plus, wanted to learn how to make béchamel sauce. We had the eggplant and potatoes prepared for us so we could layer them in, along with the ground beef, but we cooked the béchamel sauce. It’s easy enough to try on my own someday.
Potatoes and eggplant prepared ahead for us.Moussaka, individual serving. Can see layers once you eat.
Finally we prepared Greek salad… no lettuce, but delicious tomatoes…and tzatziki sauce… that was easy to make! All 15 of us sat down to our meal to eat what we made; I heard no complaints as we loved each thing we prepared. It was a fun, informative class!
Each of us took turns cooking with the chef’s help!
And then I wondered, what’s the difference between souvlaki and a gyro? It’s all about how the meat is prepared. Grilled meat on skewer means it is souvlaki. Sliced meat from a vertical rotisserie means it is a gyro! Ok, great learning adventure in Athens with its history and food!
As Greeks talk of the Mediterranean diet, I seem to see a huge number of fried food and delicious sweets! So I tried to balance the calories from my daily food intake with those calories I hoped to burn off walking. Not sure I’m succeeding, but trying counts, right?
I walked more than 5 miles to see neighborhoods beyond Athens’ city center: Koukaki and Plaka. Each is reached after walking through touristy streets with shops. While in Koukaki area, I visited the National Museum of Contemporary Art. There is an entrance fee and reduced rate for 70+ aged people. I am unsure at times about contemporary art, but kudos to artists who can create this type of art! Here was work from one artist:
Artist did work with fabric and human form.
The changing of the guard happens on the hour at Syntagma Square. The “Evzones” are a special unit of the Greek Army known as the Presidential Guard. They have deliberate marching movements while they change positions in front of the Monument to Unknown Soldiers in front of the Parliament Building. (I would love to know how it was decided to have pompoms on their shoes.) The monument is dedicated to all unidentified Greek soldiers who died in battle.
The change takes about 10 minutes. It occurs every hour and in those uniforms and this heat, I think they want to change!
While walking to Varvakios Central Market, I stopped for loukoumades. Fried dough with honey and cinnamon, “the Greek Way”. I have now spoiled any lunch idea of fresh grilled fish at the central market. Few cafes are available, but it is mostly freshly butchered fish, pork, chicken and beef throughout the place. Another area has fresh fruits and vegetables.
Loukoumades with honey and cinnamon. On my street food tour the next day I’ll see them as fried donuts.Here they are! One of the central market areas.Look at the size of the avocados!
A stop at Kostas was on my list for a pork souvlaki. This place has been here since 1950 so why not give it a go! There was a line that moved slowly (waited almost 30 minutes) as individual orders are prepared. It was worth the wait; fresh tomatoes, tender skewered pork, yogurt, and delicious pita bread. One was good for a take-away lunch for me. Do not plan to sit inside as I think there are only 4 seats.
Pork souvlakiGreek Chicken Gyros with Tzatziki and fries… quite different as we ate these on the food tour, but all delicious! I did take the fries out though; I don’t think they’re needed.
The next day I walked throughout the National Garden. Upon my arrival I saw a desert tortoise! This walk was important for me to listen and look for birds, see the garden, lakes, plants and animals and to once again burn some calories before my street food tour!
My welcome to the garden!Plenty of places to sit or paths to walk or run! Lots of shade and birds!
Finally the street food tour. I had a good time with our guide and 8 other people. So….much …..food…..!!! I’m just going with photos here and will not include all the food choices! Plus we had a wine and some other alcoholic drink. I discovered I like Greek coffee, the beans were from Brazil. New to me was the heating of the water in hot sand! I’ll have to research that. Anyway, photos below and the last blog post of Athens will be tomorrow.
Bougatsa… loved this!Making Greek coffeeGreek salad with baked cheeseFried zucchini balls with yogurtEggplantSmashed potatoes with olive oil and garlic. Other plate was baked stuffed peppers with cheese.Fried calamariBig beansSplit pea with parsley
And there were olives, olive oil and bread, sausage, Greek yogurt with honey, meatballs and plenty to enjoy! And then I took another walk!:)
Another new country coming up, Greece! East side of Italy was visited and a flight or ferry from there would be options to get to Greece.
Now to Athens, Greece
Upon my arrival in Athens, Greece, I immediately saw the benefit of having pre-booked a car/driver for hire. The driver picked me up at the airport and drove me about 45 minutes to central Athens to my hotel. There are taxis everywhere and people trying to get a taxi. Pre-booking was slick! So I would recommend booking a driver from airport to city.
Anyway, Athens is crazy busy like other big cities! My welcome dinner was at a friend’s recommendation. The waiter delivered olives and their tsipouro, a welcoming distilled alcoholic shot! Like raki in Albania, but this was smoother. Kebab, olives and beer… yes, I arrived!
I love olives!Kebab
My time on Acropolis Hill and at the Acropolis Museum consumed many hours. Our guide was wonderful providing direction, information and how to pace ourselves through it all. There is so much in the museum I could still be there, but I had enough.
Here are photos from the day, but know they do not give the ruins the justice they deserve. It is remarkable to see ruins, plus the work others continue to put into the protection and restoration of the temples. I can only provide photos; enjoy.
Dionysus, god of wine, TheaterParthenon, columns lean slightly in!Dionysus at corner of Parthenon Erechtheion built in 5th Century BC on top of remains from structure destroyed 60 years earlier by Persians.Side view of Erechtheion
The Acropolis Museum is an archeological site-specific museum. The architect chose to build above the ruins. Inside the museum are 3 floors of Ancient Greek structures, mythology and history. It’s a place that was amazing and yet I really only saw a fraction of it! But here was the ruin below:
I’ll be back in a day or so… have some food to eat and cook!
