We left the capital area of Tirana, with its million people and traffic, and drove to Shkoder with a stop first in Mrizi. In this small town we visited a potter. He and his family collect and process the clay so it is of fine quality for all the work they create. He makes beautiful pieces. The visit provided a time to talk about the communist years when artists, writers and musicians were not allowed to be their creative selves. Many of those individuals were imprisoned for not conforming. The ceramics made by his family during those decades were for the state, not their personal business. Since the end of communism, approximately 1991, many businesses began to take form and families could have their businesses.
Some individuals returned to Albania, their home, after 1992 to start their own businesses. A couple of brothers spent years in Italy learning about agriculture and cooking to create what is now a productive agri-tourism business that we visited next. At their farm they grow vegetables and fruits, raise animals and buy local milk and produce to serve fresh, in-season meals at their farm restaurant. This place is quite an operation with the variety of cheeses and wines, along with meats prepared and smoked various ways. Mrizi has many individual farms and people working together. The lunch we had was WOW! and with some fruits I had never seen before!
There were almost 200,000 bunkers built during communist time… almost 1 for every 11 people. Some have an interesting look now.
In Shkoder, a town of 120,000 people, we walked their pedestrian walkways. Away from the traffic and many bicyclists!
We visited the Cathedral of Saint Stephen. During the communist years, it was transformed into the Palace of Sports. In 1991-93 when the church was restored, there was also recognition of the 40 religious martyrs. These individuals as Catholics, Muslims, and Orthodox religious people died rather than renounce their beliefs during communist period.
Rozafa Castle, an old fortress high on a hill, once had the original St. Stephen Church. In 1478, the invading Ottomans made it a mosque. Beautiful views can be seen of the city, countryside and rivers.
Our evening was with a speaker and visit at the Museum of Remembrance.
I’ll be back in a few days with my posts.
