Towns Beyond Brindisi!

I joined a day tour to 3 hilltop towns beyond Brindisi. Advantages: meet other travelers, as I did. Two each from Canada, England, Germany, Spain and 1 from Brazil plus me. Guide plans itinerary and transportation, a nice break for a solo traveler. Disadvantage: when you want to leave a town, you’re on an itinerary for 3 towns and other people. Patience … and life goes on! Fortunately a couple of us enjoyed our time together and could talk and laugh through the day.

First town, Alberobello, was most interesting to see the trulli, the stone conical roofed huts, that are most numerous in the area in this town. They were originally built as a shelter when farming, etc and eventually people added rooms. Strict regulations are now enforced in this UNESCO town. Half can be tourist shops and other half for residential living in and/or B&B accommodations. Renovation of a trullo (plural is trulli) must be by a certified person who knows what to do with this dry stone construction. I noticed some trullo for sale but I imagined a larger cost would be in renovation!

Trullo

Wished we could see a few…

Inside a staged trullo
The non-touristy side of town!

We did an olive oil tasting. I must say every olive oil presenter has an interesting way to talk about this oil. Here he said don’t “paint your food” with the oil as he demonstrated numerous circular motions. (Like one was pouring a quarter cup of oil on whatever!) Instead one should see, smell and then small taste of the oil with only a few drops of oil on your food. If you need more than that it is not the best olive oil! Hmmm…will have to take more notice of my olive oil.

Onto Locorotondo, a smaller hilltop town. Stopped at a couple of churches. Church of San Nicolas … prompted Santa Claus!?!

Church of San Nicolas

Last town on our tour was Ostuni. Its buildings are all whitewashed, a requirement, and has its place in history as do the other towns. Our guide studied it all and attempted to have all the history make sense for us. Quite honestly though, it was a very warm day and I had been overwhelmed with history! We returned to Brindisi and I enjoyed a walk along the waterfront, then dinner with a glass of red wine. A previous night a piano player was nearby, not at this place, darn! Overall a good day, but important now to relax! It is the only way to maintain a healthy pace when traveling.

Basilicas Followed by Wine in Bologna, Italy; Part 1 of 2

I confess! A large meal/dinner after 7pm does not work for me. If I did eat then, I would need to stay active till after 11pm! Okay, that’s not happening. 

Instead, for my 7pm time, I discovered “Bottega Botle” so I could try any amount of wine from a dispenser, with available snacks, and a tablet with info about the wine I was drinking. Cool! What’s not to enjoy? I may return!

However, before all of that evening fun, I saw many Basilicas and markets as I wandered the streets of Bologna. Here are some I stopped at as I began to understand why it takes decades to build these magnificent cathedrals! Just hauling a column into place seems a massive undertaking to me!

First, statue of Neptune!
Basilica of San Petronio with Meridian Sundial! This is the 6th largest brick church in the world, 22 chapels and 2 oldest working organs besides the sundial!
I was there at noon.
Palazzo Dell’Archiginnasio, built 1562!
Biblioteca deli Archginnasia
Santa Maria della Vita

Fish markets, meat markets and if you walk the touristy main road you can find all kinds of things!

I stopped for late lunch and with my beer came olives and potato chips, followed by my spaghetti alla carbonara. I am forever a critic and this is still not my best meal. I travel on!

Late in the day I stopped in at Bottega Botle and that was fun. Met other travelers from California and enjoyed various wine and delicious mortadella bologna! Great place to try various wines!

Wine, mortadella bologna and info!

Tomorrow, no basilicas… all food!

Solo Travel in Italy

Life for me now has changed as our tour group heads home and I stay on as a solo traveler. My goal is to spend time on the eastern coast of Italy. Now to see the Adriatic Sea from another view!

Note Bologna, Bari, Brindisi

Visiting Trieste, Italy first….

I am only here for 2 nights so I immediately headed toward the Grand Canal. Plenty of cafes along the canal, jellyfish in the water, and musicians playing.

There were many jellyfish!

I stepped into churches: Saint Antonio Taumaturgo and a Serbian Orthodox one. Each beautiful. Then I walked to the huge Piazza Unità d’Italia where a “Maker Faire” was happening. Tons of people at booths checking out puzzles, 3-D printing, robotics and I return here the next day too. So many displays! Really fascinating, but I wanted to walk the Molo Audace, a long pier out into the water. People are walking or sitting and enjoying the simple rock pier. After walking the waterfront and back by side streets and seeing numerous statues, I decided to eat. My pizza with eggplant at Barattalo restaurant was delicious!

The next day I considered going to Miramare Castle. It was built in 1856 -60 for Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian. I figured it and the gardens would be beautiful. I was too early to catch the Delfino Verde ferry for the 50 minute ride, so I decided to visit other places I had in mind. (BTW… ferry to and bus 6 back was the recommendation to me for Miramare, in case you want to easily get there from Trieste.)

I headed to San Giusto, a healthy uphill hike from the waterfront. I worked my way past a couple of old churches to the Cathedral of San Giusto and attended mass. Interesting listening to the Italian language spoken and sung by a choir. Of course the “peace be with you” handshake was clearly understood as I shook my neighbor’s hands.

Mosaic work was unbelievably beautiful!

Walking down a rocky hill isn’t the easiest. I stopped at some ruins, such as the Arch of Riccardo and the Roman Theater and was glad to be on level ground at the “Maker Faire” again. I loved seeing people of all ages engaged in the activities.

My late lunch was at La Caprese Trattoria and there I had spaghetti with eggplant and clams. I have been drinking small Moretti beers with my meals.

Then hours were spent at the Revotella Palace and Gallery of Modern Art. Baron Pasquale Revoltella, in 1872, left his artwork, books and furniture…. his house to the city! I walked through the modern art museum first and then this historic house! Amazing paintings, sculptures and some info in English, but all easy enough to follow. The house is opulent!

Not your ordinary house!

Can pasta-making be this much fun? I’ve given it a try in Croatia and will again Bologna. Wow, that’s how she makes that shape!?!

This step, then shaped on her finger!

As I was winding down my day, I decided to try an aperitif which is typically a pre-dinner drink. My late lunch was already enough food, but I decided to try an Aperol spritz. If I like it, maybe in the upcoming weeks I’ll enjoy it as a pre-dinner drink … like it is meant to be!

Got to admit, great advertising there!

So the drink has aperol: a blend of bitter orange, rhubarb, cinchona, and gentian with Prosecco and soda water. A fresh orange slice is a garnish. (I researched cinchona – comes from an evergreen tree in South America and the bark contains quinine. Cinchona is used to treat malaria and possibly irregular heartbeats. I see it is used as a pre-dinner drink to increase appetite.) Okay now knowing all that, I can decide if it will continue to be my drink of choice! I’m still wrapping my head around eating dinner after 7pm. So far I like a late lunch. But one also has to eat before 3:30pm as many places close till 7pm.

I walked 10 miles in 2 days and still have more to see plus Miramare Castle. I’ll have to return another time. Off to Bologna… I’ll post again in a couple of days.

Istrian Peninsula: Part 4 of 4, Bale, Croatia

Our day began with a visit to a 5th generation olive oil production, a small family operation, Grubic, producing quality olive oil. They are recognized in a 2026 competition within the top 500 olive oil producers in the world!

After an explanation of their harvesting process and seeing the centrifuges they use, we did have a tasting. Interestingly centrifuges are now used rather than the old press method! The equipment is very expensive. They do have a cooperative spirit here in providing local olive growers to pay for the use of their equipment.

Centrifuge now used, not a press.

We had 3 tastings each of a monoculture and the 4th was a blend. We were to warm the cup holding our olive oil and then slowly sip it with some air. That is to be the correct way to taste the oil. Also, the tasters at competitions receive each oil tasting in a blue glass as the color of olive oil has nothing to do with its quality. The first tasting has a fresh grass sort of taste and the last did not.

After our tasting we had some snacks with the olive oil drizzled on it. The biggest surprise though was vanilla ice cream with fig and plum fruit on it and a drizzle of olive oil!

Olive oil drizzled on snacks.
Olive oil drizzled on ice cream!

We walked through the small, very quiet town of Bale. Of course, had a coffee. Everything is quite relaxed! I met a couple on their honeymoon and enjoyed talking with them. They are from northern area of Croatia.

Walking through town
Old church with few frescoes remaining.
See the barn swallow that flew in and has nest on ceiling.

I did see bicyclists throughout this trip. This day they were part of VBT tour. While many towns in the Balkan area have very bicycle-friendly lanes/paths, the roads between the towns have no bike lanes or shoulders. The cyclists with front and rear lights and colorful clothing and helmets were easier to see. Motorists also seemed to provide some distance between their vehicle and cyclists which I was happy to see!

On our way back to Poreč, we stopped at Lim Fjord. Mussels and oysters are grown in the brackish water, but very beautiful area! Water was a bit cool so no swimmers! The area does look like a fjord.

Lim Fjord
Lim Fjord

Where we are staying in Poreč does have a place for bicycle storage:

Farewell dinner is tonight and I am off to Trieste, Italy tomorrow. Here is a map of the travel so far with the Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) group I have been with these past weeks! Tomorrow I am a solo traveler for a few weeks in Italy and Greece.

Istrian Peninsula: Part 3 of 4, Rovinj, Croatia

We drove south the first part of our day to a seaside town, Rovinj. Upon our arrival, we see houses along the coastline and then on top of the hill is Church of Saint Euphemia. People could truly jump out of their window into the water below, if they wished Probably not, but the homes are straight up from the coast!

Rovinj is on the coastline!

Later in the day we did stop in the church. The steeple also functions as a weather vane. Here too is plenty of history.

Church of Saint Euphemia
Church

We walked around this town and fishing port. Stopped by the fresh market too.

Olives, olive oil, honey and more!
Fresh fruit and vegetables

Fourteen islands are just offshore from here, some of thousand plus islands off Croatia. Rovinj does have pedestrian-only area and plenty of shops. We enjoyed a cappuccino as we looked out on the water in sunshine.

Comfortable place to relax and sip any drink!

After lunch we drove to Cattunar Winery. It is beautifully located! We had an informative tour of their harvest and bottling process, plus to see their cellar with some very old wines. I love red wine; however, I did like the Malvazija white wine the Istrian peninsula is known for. Of course, we had delicious snacks with the 2 wines and a third sweet wine! Since the red wine has more tannins it was served with cheese and black truffles on the bread. What was not to enjoy!

White wine was very good!
Loved the red wine too!
Black truffles and cheese on bread.

I’ll be back tomorrow as it is our last day on Istrian peninsula and last day of tour before I am off as a solo traveler.

Here are a few more photos from this day:

Winery, vineyard in beautiful area!
Notice pointed ends of this boat which is only found here, called a batana.
Homes

Istrian Peninsula: Part 2 of 4, Pula, Croatia

We drove about 50 minutes to Pula, the largest city and major port on the southernmost tip of the peninsula. Our guide explained the importance of this location was because it has a protected harbor. Now however you only see abandoned ship building projects and maybe small boat repairs. At once I realized how beautiful our 5 nights in Poreč is compared to staying in Pula.

However there is plenty of history here. Our first stop was at the Roman amphitheater built between 27 BC and 68 AD. It has all 4 walls intact and I was reminded of my first visit to Rome’s amphitheater. This one in Pula is one of the world’s six largest surviving Roman arenas. Centuries ago there were gladiator contests, now it is a tourist attraction and concert venue.

Walking into the arena
Looking down and into the arena

We also saw the Temple of Augustus built between 2 BC and 14 AD. He was the first Roman emperor and the temple was probably built during his lifetime.

Temple of Augustus

The Venetians built the Kaštel Fortress/Pula Castle in the 14th century on the hilltop which provides great views of the city. After walking around the fortress, you can take an elevator to 2 lower levels with access to a network of tunnels. This was amazing to see as the tunnels are a good size and long.

Approaching the star-shaped fortress
A lower level tunnel

Arch of the Sergii was another stop on our walking tour of Pula. This 1st century Roman triumphal arch was built and fully paid for by a family member to honor three members of their family.

So much history… and then we saw stone shelters. Many places you will find the dry wall stone construction, but seeing this stone shelter was fascinating!

Would be a challenge to build; only rock!

I’ll be back tomorrow, another town to visit.

Istrian Peninsula: Part 1 of 4: Poreč, Croatia

On a tip of the Istrian Peninsula you’ll find the town of Poreč where we stay 5 nights and visit different areas from this point. The luxury of 5 nights in one location! Love it; unpacking and stay!

As we traveled from Ljubljana, Slovenia to here, past road construction and traffic, olive trees, vineyards and countryside, we stopped at a small, family prosciutteria. It was fascinating to learn about the male pig’s hind legs being prepared and cured, plus the use of a horse’s fibula to check the meat. With the expertise of our host at this family, she can smell the fibula that is inserted and pulled out from the aged leg to know if it is a good product or not. This family ages their pork naturally with windows opened and closed as they determine the specific temperature, wind, and humidity needed in the rooms where the meat hangs. Industrial places using modern technology and air conditioning is different than their process.

Hang for 1 to 3 years.
Various aged prosciutto

We walked in a nearby hill town, Stanjel, Croatia. I really loved the gardens and views from here.

Wow!

Interestingly, while we waited for our ride, I noticed this electric charging station, actually it is for 6 e-bikes. There are many bicyclists and with the hills in this country I am not surprised that many are e-bikes. How fantastic to have a charging station for them!

Charging station for e-bikes. It extends for 6 bikes.

Dinner and a walk to enjoy the sunset.

Perfect ending to this day. See you tomorrow!

Lake Bled, Slovenia and More

The water in Lake Bled at this time of year is simply beautiful. Here it is…

We drove from Ljubljana to Lake Bled through green countryside to arrive at this scenic spot. High above the lake, clinging to the rocky cliff, is an 800 year old castle which we visited. 

Castle on the cliff

In the middle of the lake is a 17th century church which we rode a pletna to get to it. A pletna is a boat similar to a gondola.

A pletna
Off to the islet to visit the church

We had fantastic weather for this day trip as we climbed the steps to these locations and learned about this area’s history. We returned to Ljubljana by way of Radovljica for lunch and a walk through the town.

Back at Ljubljana we also had a snack … one that went to space! You may know the info about NASA astronaut,  Sunita Williams, celebrating her heritage by bringing a traditional Carniolan sausage, kranjska klobasa, to the International Space Station in 2006. (Info is specifically on the sign.)

Celebrates her mixed heritage

Yes, I got a chance to taste this sausage! It was delicious with a touch of mustard. Others added horse radish.

Or eat it with no condiment; the sausage is delicious!

The next day we cruised on Ljubljanica River, I visited with my Slovenian friend who I met in Naples, Italy a couple of years ago, and my fellow travelers and I had our farewell dinner. A few of us will now continue with a new guide for 5 nights as we explore the Istria area of Croatia and sleep in Poreč. I’ll be back in a few days. Look at this food in the photos below… so tasty!

My friend and I shared this cibanica… it has 4 layers: poppy seeds, curd cheese, walnuts and apples separated by filo (phyllo) dough. Light and delicious and was served warm.
We shared this also -jabolčna pita which is apple pie… yum!

Hike at Plitvice Lakes

It’s a couple of hours drive from Zagreb to this UNESCO World Heritage Site, Plitvice Lakes. We stopped at a small town where waterfalls were running under people’s homes! I spent some time talking with a bicyclist. He had a fully loaded bike. It is his first adventure. He is German and started in Germany with hopes to cycle through the Balkan countries and finish in Turkey in two months.

Waterfall under a home in this small town.
Bicyclist stopping for lunch at this small town. There are no bike lanes on the road to the national park, Plitvice Lakes.

I had seen a Rick Steves program about the 16 turquoise lakes linked by waterfalls which Plitvice Lakes is known for. On our day hike we only saw 4 of the lakes and the “Big Waterfall”. Plenty of wildflowers; I saw a trout in the water and others did see a frog. Only a few birds were heard. Despite it not being peak season, there were plenty of tourists on the paths and boardwalk. I think the photos show its beauty.

Off to another town in Croatia to make pasta! I’ll be back in a couple of days!

Zagreb, Croatia … The Capital

We walked the Lower and Upper Towns in this city which now has 800,000 people and close to a million people, if you consider the outskirts. The Upper Town has the cathedral and Lower Town was merchant area. The funicular, shortest in Europe, was not operating … maybe because it was Monday? Many museums were not open on Mondays too; however, I found time to enjoy a cup of cappuccino after one museum visit. There is definitely an Austrian-Hungarian influence here. I almost feel like I am in Vienna. If I had a piece of strudel with my cappuccino I would believe I was!

I stopped in at the Museum of Naïve Art. Sort of a strange name. “Peasant artists” were called “naïve artists” at one time when collection of their work, paintings and sculptures, began in 1952. These individuals had no formal art education/instruction but their work had a recognizable style and were collected. Eventually the museum’s name changed to what it is now.

Paintings and sculptures at museum
Gas lamps still lit around the city.

Fellow travelers said the Museum of Cartoons was very good. Also the Museum of Broken Relationships was interesting. One story I heard is a broken relationship with gluten! See, relationships of all sorts are presented. Apparently the NYTimes wrote an article about that museum and there are people sending something and their broken relationship story to this museum.

Much reconstruction is happening in the city since the March 2020 earthquake. They are still working on the cathedral’s spires. The bells survived and are safely inside the cathedral at the moment.

Cathedral’s towers being restored.
Cathedral
Main square in Zagreb

We took a bus out to the city’s public cemetery and walked around. It is very expensive to be buried here, plus with an annual fee. It is huge but I loved being among the trees.

Public cemetery

Back to the city where the red umbrellas are you will find an outdoor market. Underground is the market for all foods needing refrigeration. There I saw plenty of meats and cheeses!

Walk in crosswalk, bicyclists on red path.

Tomorrow we are at Plitvice Lakes. I am looking forward to our hiking time and hopefully to see some birds!