Living Like A Local My Last Days in Italy

For ten days I had the opportunity to live like a local in the outskirts of Rome, Italy. I loved it, especially after I figured how to board and pay my fare on the bus and connect with the metro to visit places in Rome’s city center. Metro station for Line C is new, as of 2025, and while constructing it they discovered ruins and incorporated some of the finds at the new metro station! Walking past the Colosseum, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon and other places from past visits again was fun! Now I visited numerous churches and monuments during this visit, along with Villa Borghese and Vatican City!

But then I discovered places closer to where I was staying. Neighborhood walks were fun. Even in the outskirts of the city there were plenty of ruins and monuments to visit. I also enjoyed eating with friends at their home and seeing how locals work during the week and play on weekends. As a traveler we don’t often see this side of life, so I appreciated their generosity in allowing me a place to stay and their time with me.

These stones are Appian Way, built in 312 BCE. Can you imagine how many people have traveled on this highway!?!

I had a wonderful opportunity to travel about 5 hours from Rome where my grandfather originally came from. We visited where he was born and where he lived prior to his travel at age 19 to America. All I could think was my 12 hour plane ride, Rome, Italy to California, USA was nothing compared to the number of days he came by boat to New York City back in the early 1900’s! It reminds me that we are all from immigrants.

I am fortune to travel and wish to see the world before I cannot. People I talk with during my travel, inform me of different ideas, share common pleasures with travel, invite me for a cup of espresso, and/or recommend a place not to be missed in my travel plan. I learn about their home, career, joys and frustrations. We’re all on this planet with varying backgrounds, but the joy of safe travel around the world is a common desire. Sixteen thousand miles later, through Albania, Montenegro, Bosnia – Herzegovina, Croatia, Slovenia, Greece and Italy, I am home! Home, sweet home … another joy in my life!

Thank you to all who made my travel educational, safe and fun!

Where in the world will I travel to next?

Borghese Legacy in Rome; Part 2 of 3

The Borghese Gallery is an elegant palace and worldwide famous art museum with exceptional paintings by artists/sculptors, such as Caravaggio, Bernini and Raphael. Did I know any of this before now? No, an advantage of travel … often learning something new!

A couple of days prior, I visited the villa’s gardens, about one-quarter the size of NYC’s Central Park and third largest park in Rome. This large green space of trees has statues, monuments and plenty of quiet, shady places to sit. Or choose a bench nearby a musician … one was a saxophonist, further down the path an accordionist. A couple of artists with ink and paper, another with watercolor. I loved it!

My favorite place to sit at the Borghese gardens.
Monuments throughout
Other places to sit away from main path.
Secret Garden on the right, but area allowed no entry while work is being done.
Borghese Galleria, Rome, Italy

The villa/galleria was never a residence from what I understand. It was Cardinal Scipione Borghese, the nephew of Pope Paul V (reign 1605–1621) who collected works and had favorite artists. On my guided tour I discover a new name: Caravaggio. (A few days later another person points out his work to me at a basilica.) Yes, now I see Caravaggio’s use of light!

Caravaggio’s Saint Jerome

Fortunately I used the galleria’s official website, before my visit, to be prepared in knowing some of the famous sculptures and paintings. I had come to truly appreciate Bernini’s sculptures! No doubt any individual who loves art and history puts this place on their itinerary.

Bernini’s The Truth What I discovered while looking closer, it was not a finished piece!
Fingers are not done. Amazing how sculptor creates from a block of marble!

For many decades works were collected. But the family became bankrupt in the 19th century, so the Italian state owns it, all of it, and opened it all to the public in 1902! What a save! Here’s a few more photos, but nothing compared to what is there. Visit if you are interested in art!

Raphael’s work
Bust of Cardinal Scipione Borghese who started and collected for the family.
Many beautiful rooms!

Tomorrow a new country, Vatican City!

Bari: yes, More Pasta-making! Part 2 of 2.

Did you notice food tours and pasta-making classes are my favorite activities when I travel? Yes, especially as a solo traveler! They are opportunities to interact with other travelers, eat good food and learn new things about the area that I’ll continue to wander around in the upcoming days.

But first I wanted to walk away from city center, along the coast and have a good appetite for my pasta-making and eating later in the day. It’s a beautiful sunny day and always with a wind; a joy of being on a coast! I discover a 10km race is happening and they too are going my way! So I felt like all of us were on a walk-run activity. I cheered them on, even as I noticed no sidewalk spectators did, and also offered to take group photos as needed. Never planned any of that interaction, but it was fun! I turned around at their 4km sign to head back to city center.

A beautiful day for a walk.
And for some to run… or walk.
Or parasail… others were sailing and surfing!
And I observed this egret and some black-winged stilts on a thin canal.

Later in the day was pasta-making time! This pasta-making class was with 14 other people at a restaurant! We made tiramisu, a couple of pastas with a pasta-making machine, and then sat down to eat! We started with prosecco at a fine dining table. The restaurant doesn’t open till 7:30PM so we’ll be out just before then.

Restaurant style!
Equipment for all!

We made the tiramisu and pastas with all levels of success. I think I’m catching on how to use the machine. Our chef only spoke Italian so we had a translator. My fellow participants were from Romania, Germany, Denmark, Tunisia and 2 other people from USA.

I loved the Primitivo wine with my meal and we finished it all with limoncello! Tomorrow morning I have time to walk and relax before catching a train to Brindisi.

Solo Travel in Italy

Life for me now has changed as our tour group heads home and I stay on as a solo traveler. My goal is to spend time on the eastern coast of Italy. Now to see the Adriatic Sea from another view!

Note Bologna, Bari, Brindisi

Visiting Trieste, Italy first….

I am only here for 2 nights so I immediately headed toward the Grand Canal. Plenty of cafes along the canal, jellyfish in the water, and musicians playing.

There were many jellyfish!

I stepped into churches: Saint Antonio Taumaturgo and a Serbian Orthodox one. Each beautiful. Then I walked to the huge Piazza Unità d’Italia where a “Maker Faire” was happening. Tons of people at booths checking out puzzles, 3-D printing, robotics and I return here the next day too. So many displays! Really fascinating, but I wanted to walk the Molo Audace, a long pier out into the water. People are walking or sitting and enjoying the simple rock pier. After walking the waterfront and back by side streets and seeing numerous statues, I decided to eat. My pizza with eggplant at Barattalo restaurant was delicious!

The next day I considered going to Miramare Castle. It was built in 1856 -60 for Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian. I figured it and the gardens would be beautiful. I was too early to catch the Delfino Verde ferry for the 50 minute ride, so I decided to visit other places I had in mind. (BTW… ferry to and bus 6 back was the recommendation to me for Miramare, in case you want to easily get there from Trieste.)

I headed to San Giusto, a healthy uphill hike from the waterfront. I worked my way past a couple of old churches to the Cathedral of San Giusto and attended mass. Interesting listening to the Italian language spoken and sung by a choir. Of course the “peace be with you” handshake was clearly understood as I shook my neighbor’s hands.

Mosaic work was unbelievably beautiful!

Walking down a rocky hill isn’t the easiest. I stopped at some ruins, such as the Arch of Riccardo and the Roman Theater and was glad to be on level ground at the “Maker Faire” again. I loved seeing people of all ages engaged in the activities.

My late lunch was at La Caprese Trattoria and there I had spaghetti with eggplant and clams. I have been drinking small Moretti beers with my meals.

Then hours were spent at the Revotella Palace and Gallery of Modern Art. Baron Pasquale Revoltella, in 1872, left his artwork, books and furniture…. his house to the city! I walked through the modern art museum first and then this historic house! Amazing paintings, sculptures and some info in English, but all easy enough to follow. The house is opulent!

Not your ordinary house!

Can pasta-making be this much fun? I’ve given it a try in Croatia and will again Bologna. Wow, that’s how she makes that shape!?!

This step, then shaped on her finger!

As I was winding down my day, I decided to try an aperitif which is typically a pre-dinner drink. My late lunch was already enough food, but I decided to try an Aperol spritz. If I like it, maybe in the upcoming weeks I’ll enjoy it as a pre-dinner drink … like it is meant to be!

Got to admit, great advertising there!

So the drink has aperol: a blend of bitter orange, rhubarb, cinchona, and gentian with Prosecco and soda water. A fresh orange slice is a garnish. (I researched cinchona – comes from an evergreen tree in South America and the bark contains quinine. Cinchona is used to treat malaria and possibly irregular heartbeats. I see it is used as a pre-dinner drink to increase appetite.) Okay now knowing all that, I can decide if it will continue to be my drink of choice! I’m still wrapping my head around eating dinner after 7pm. So far I like a late lunch. But one also has to eat before 3:30pm as many places close till 7pm.

I walked 10 miles in 2 days and still have more to see plus Miramare Castle. I’ll have to return another time. Off to Bologna… I’ll post again in a couple of days.

Research Where You Will Travel, Before You Go!

Before I travel anywhere, I take time to learn about the area and/or country. For my upcoming trip to Sicily, some of the prep was very easy. A tentative daily itinerary was provided by the tour company so I could read about the villages and sites we would visit. As a visual learner, I often research further especially wanting to see photos of an area or place.

Quite by accident, there was a television program about the geology of Sicily. “Doug’s Geology Journal” on PBS had a half-hour, jam-packed, episode about how:

…. the Eurasian and African tectonic plates crashed together so long ago to form the uplifted areas on the island

…. a nappe is formed

…. the northeast side of Sicily was added onto from rock miles to its north

…. the “boot” of Italy got its shape 

…. Mount Etna is still a very active volcano

Now I am really looking forward to seeing the geology of the island, especially the limestone cliffs! The program’s aerial view of Sicily almost makes me wish we had a helicopter tour during our stay on the island. Who knows, maybe I could make that happen?

Map reading the area you plan to visit, in my opinion, is an interesting thing to do. Where are villages relative to each other, what bodies of water surround the island, are there many roads in the country, what’s the elevation of the land? I now realize our travel will be in a circle around the island with Mount Etna being the island’s highest point at 11,014 feet. Sicily has the Mediterranean Sea to its south and Ionian Sea to its east. Between Italy’s west coast across to the island of Sardinia and north of Sicily is the Tyrrhenian Sea. 

Readings from books, magazines and newspapers help round out information when wanting to research something further. Or as I was reading a recent New York Times article about life in Pompeii. Will re-read that article when touring the Naples area as it is about a new archeological find in the area.vAlso know, tour companies often provide bibliographies with informative books to read and sometimes even movies to watch.

Conversations with others: people who already toured the island may have some thoughts and highlights to share. Recently friends mentioned a nature preserve they absolutely loved so I have it circled on my map. Unexpectedly, I had a conversation with an Italian woman from Italy when I was visiting Grand Canyon National Park. After a mention of my upcoming trip to Sicily, she excitedly told me about her favorite dessert with ricotta. I know she did not say cannoli because I know and already love that dessert.

My research found “cassateddi”, officially called “sweet ravioli of ricotta”. Apparently the half moon shapes are filled with sweet ricotta, then fried, and called “sciauni” in the Messina and Catania areas of the island. There is also a “cassatelle”. This dessert is sweet dough filled with ricotta and chocolate chip mixture, then fried. There is even ricotta cheesecake! I hope to taste all these desserts! Shall I eat dessert first? Or maybe be sure to leave room for dessert?

About the wine. I drink and enjoy a glass of wine with my dinner, yet I do not know  a lot about wines. After asking a friend and a visit to a local wine shop, I’ll taste Nero d’ Avola, a Sicilian red wine. I am sure to easily find white Grillo and Inzolia on menus. They are made with native grapes. These tastings during the trip will be great fun!

So much can be learned  and enjoyed before a trip has even started! I find doing the research is a big part in building the excitement about an upcoming trip. If you don’t already spend time researching your travel, just take one trip to research and give it a try. As a result, you may find something exciting and not want to miss it while on your trip. Bon voyage!

Items to Pack for International Travel

The last couple of years I have been focused on my US travels by van. Preparing for my trip to Italy, I need items specifically for international travel. Here’s my list:

Passport: Needed to be renewed so I had enough blank pages in it and more than 6 months till its renewal.

Global Entry Card: This card makes it easy to move through some airports faster than others around the world.

Visa Needed?: Europe may soon require a visa for entry to any EU country. I’m waiting on details.

Eye mask, ear plugs and N95 facial mask: Airplane time can be more enjoyable when you can darken your eyelids, hear yourself think with no extra noise, and not breathe other’s germs.

Universal adapter/converter: Correct electrical plug for my phone and anything else I wish to plug into the Italian electrical system.

Copies of important info: If a credit card or any other important piece of info was stolen, have a copy of it elsewhere along with customer service contact info to report issue or seek help.

Travel Insurance: Insurance details, plan #, and customer service number, available for your use if needed.

Medicines: Prescription meds should be in containers with the name of the drug on it. Any other meds needed, such as an antibiotic, in case you need it while traveling? 

Download Apps: some apps I use for access to walking tours, or day tours, while on the road. The airline apps are helpful too. Best to download when home so they are ready to use while traveling. An important one: enroll in the STEP Program and download the Smart Traveler app. This alerts local embassies that you’re in the area.

Physical Map: Yes, maps are on our phone, but I love having a physical map of the country I am visiting.

Airline Luggage Requirements: Each airline has size and weight requirements for personal bag, carry-on bag and checked luggage. Know the specifics. The major airline for my coming and going to Europe has no weight limit; however, a puddle-jumper I am taking has a limit of 30 pounds for my carry-on bag.

Foreign Currency: If you have some Euros from a past trip, then you may wish to throw them into your wallet. Rarely do I get money from a US bank before I travel to a foreign country. 

Communication Tools: An iPhone is with me, but decision yet to be made about use of Whats App, AT&T international service, FaceTime, Skype, eSim card or Instagram. Others may have additional choices available to them. How will you communicate while within the country and internationally?

Dependent on how heavy my carry-on bag becomes, I sometimes pack an airline-allowable fork, knife and collapsible bowl to use at hostels with kitchens or when creating a meal on my own. A bandana is also part of my gear since many places do not have washcloths. What other items do you bring? Other trips I may check luggage and can carry more; however, this trip I will travel very light.

I love a physical map!

Travel By Plane in 2024; Where?

My travel plans the last three years radically changed due to the Covid-19 pandemic affecting the world. As a result, all my air travel halted, especially as I too often heard about travelers enjoying the discounted prices on trips, yet returning home with the virus! An unhealthy end to a trip, despite the cost-saving, was simply not attractive to me!

The second year of the pandemic I bought a van to travel throughout the USA, for what became years 2 and 3 of the pandemic. I loved every mile on the road. The USA has so many wonderful places to explore. Now at the start of year four, 2024, the virus remains. Vaccines have been available, just as the annual flu shot has been for decades. So I added the Covid vaccine to my regimen when offered. Decided in 2022, unbeknownst to me of what the world would be like 2 years later, I would plan a return to air travel in 2024. Plus, time to move on with my goal in seeing the world. I hoped I would know enough about the Covid virus to stay as healthy as I could whatever the year. (I did get Covid in 2023. No fun for a few weeks.)

Hop on a plane to Hawaii? Hawaii was one of the few USA states I have not visited; travel delayed due to Covid. As avian malaria, predators and climate change affect the endemic plant and animal species, I wish to visit this state in an upcoming year! I had not realized, till recently, the large number of endemic bird species on the various Hawaiian Islands! There are bird guides specific to Hawaiian birds because there are so many. I need to visit and see the birds before they are extinct. Plus, some national parks to visit!

Or fly to Iceland? Iceland is a country I keep thinking I should stop delaying a visit there. Typically I would hear the recommendation to stop-over this country for a night or two. However, I am beginning to think differently. Iceland is having more earthquakes and volcanic action forcing some tourist attractions closed. Iceland is an island formed from all that geologic history, yet I would wish to visit without being in the middle of a quake or lava flow. I know for some people that would add to the adventure, but I’m not so sure.

Decision made:

My first travel-by-plane trip will be to Sicily, place with an active volcano: Mount Etna. It did erupt in 2023: February, May, August and November. I’ll be in Sicily February 2024. For a few weeks I will be with a tour group in Sicily, followed by time-on-my-own in Naples and Rome. I have always enjoyed past trips traveling around Italy. Bicycling between hilltop towns or traveling by train while enjoying delicious food and wine was always fun. Now to discover Sicily, a place I had never before visited. 

Upcoming blog posts will include: information/research of each area in Sicily I visit, how I prep for international travel, how to pack a carry-on bag, information and photos of places I visit. There will be photos and reports of yummy food I eat and my overall impression of Sicily and beyond. I will write these blog posts when I can. Please know my first priority is learning about an area and enjoying my travel. I appreciate your patience; so expect that blog posts will be written with a bit of a delay!

Later in the year I have a dream-trip-of-a-lifetime planned and you’ll hear about it another time. Till then, safe travels to everyone, however you choose to travel in 2024! Be well!

Decisions, decisions…

This post is part 1, part 2 is tomorrow. Usually I only post 2 times a week; however, for this travel I will post day after day.