Time to cook Greek food! What no pasta? Of course not, and that is why I decided to attend a cooking class in Athens, Greece! Here was my opportunity to cook milk pie for dessert, spinach pie for starter, moussaka, Greek salad and tzatziki.
We had 4 wines; sparkling wine while we cooked, white and/or red as we ate and a dessert wine with the milk pie which is similar to a creme brûlée. We started our lesson with milk pie since it needed to bake. I must say all the recipes were easy to make … and maybe I shall try to cook them when I am home!
Milk pie with sugar and cinnamon on top, delicious!
Next we made phyllo, or filo, dough for our spinach pie. We were making individual servings. Despite my dough being very thin, it had more dough than I would want because I love the spinach within! Just need more practice with the dough!
Spinach pie! Time to bake!
I was most interested in making moussaka. I love seeing the layers…potatoes, eggplant, ground meat and béchamel on top! plus, wanted to learn how to make béchamel sauce. We had the eggplant and potatoes prepared for us so we could layer them in, along with the ground beef, but we cooked the béchamel sauce. It’s easy enough to try on my own someday.
Potatoes and eggplant prepared ahead for us.Moussaka, individual serving. Can see layers once you eat.
Finally we prepared Greek salad… no lettuce, but delicious tomatoes…and tzatziki sauce… that was easy to make! All 15 of us sat down to our meal to eat what we made; I heard no complaints as we loved each thing we prepared. It was a fun, informative class!
Each of us took turns cooking with the chef’s help!
And then I wondered, what’s the difference between souvlaki and a gyro? It’s all about how the meat is prepared. Grilled meat on skewer means it is souvlaki. Sliced meat from a vertical rotisserie means it is a gyro! Ok, great learning adventure in Athens with its history and food!
As Greeks talk of the Mediterranean diet, I seem to see a huge number of fried food and delicious sweets! So I tried to balance the calories from my daily food intake with those calories I hoped to burn off walking. Not sure I’m succeeding, but trying counts, right?
I walked more than 5 miles to see neighborhoods beyond Athens’ city center: Koukaki and Plaka. Each is reached after walking through touristy streets with shops. While in Koukaki area, I visited the National Museum of Contemporary Art. There is an entrance fee and reduced rate for 70+ aged people. I am unsure at times about contemporary art, but kudos to artists who can create this type of art! Here was work from one artist:
Artist did work with fabric and human form.
The changing of the guard happens on the hour at Syntagma Square. The “Evzones” are a special unit of the Greek Army known as the Presidential Guard. They have deliberate marching movements while they change positions in front of the Monument to Unknown Soldiers in front of the Parliament Building. (I would love to know how it was decided to have pompoms on their shoes.) The monument is dedicated to all unidentified Greek soldiers who died in battle.
The change takes about 10 minutes. It occurs every hour and in those uniforms and this heat, I think they want to change!
While walking to Varvakios Central Market, I stopped for loukoumades. Fried dough with honey and cinnamon, “the Greek Way”. I have now spoiled any lunch idea of fresh grilled fish at the central market. Few cafes are available, but it is mostly freshly butchered fish, pork, chicken and beef throughout the place. Another area has fresh fruits and vegetables.
Loukoumades with honey and cinnamon. On my street food tour the next day I’ll see them as fried donuts.Here they are! One of the central market areas.Look at the size of the avocados!
A stop at Kostas was on my list for a pork souvlaki. This place has been here since 1950 so why not give it a go! There was a line that moved slowly (waited almost 30 minutes) as individual orders are prepared. It was worth the wait; fresh tomatoes, tender skewered pork, yogurt, and delicious pita bread. One was good for a take-away lunch for me. Do not plan to sit inside as I think there are only 4 seats.
Pork souvlakiGreek Chicken Gyros with Tzatziki and fries… quite different as we ate these on the food tour, but all delicious! I did take the fries out though; I don’t think they’re needed.
The next day I walked throughout the National Garden. Upon my arrival I saw a desert tortoise! This walk was important for me to listen and look for birds, see the garden, lakes, plants and animals and to once again burn some calories before my street food tour!
My welcome to the garden!Plenty of places to sit or paths to walk or run! Lots of shade and birds!
Finally the street food tour. I had a good time with our guide and 8 other people. So….much …..food…..!!! I’m just going with photos here and will not include all the food choices! Plus we had a wine and some other alcoholic drink. I discovered I like Greek coffee, the beans were from Brazil. New to me was the heating of the water in hot sand! I’ll have to research that. Anyway, photos below and the last blog post of Athens will be tomorrow.
Bougatsa… loved this!Making Greek coffeeGreek salad with baked cheeseFried zucchini balls with yogurtEggplantSmashed potatoes with olive oil and garlic. Other plate was baked stuffed peppers with cheese.Fried calamariBig beansSplit pea with parsley
And there were olives, olive oil and bread, sausage, Greek yogurt with honey, meatballs and plenty to enjoy! And then I took another walk!:)
Another new country coming up, Greece! East side of Italy was visited and a flight or ferry from there would be options to get to Greece.
Now to Athens, Greece
Upon my arrival in Athens, Greece, I immediately saw the benefit of having pre-booked a car/driver for hire. The driver picked me up at the airport and drove me about 45 minutes to central Athens to my hotel. There are taxis everywhere and people trying to get a taxi. Pre-booking was slick! So I would recommend booking a driver from airport to city.
Anyway, Athens is crazy busy like other big cities! My welcome dinner was at a friend’s recommendation. The waiter delivered olives and their tsipouro, a welcoming distilled alcoholic shot! Like raki in Albania, but this was smoother. Kebab, olives and beer… yes, I arrived!
I love olives!Kebab
My time on Acropolis Hill and at the Acropolis Museum consumed many hours. Our guide was wonderful providing direction, information and how to pace ourselves through it all. There is so much in the museum I could still be there, but I had enough.
Here are photos from the day, but know they do not give the ruins the justice they deserve. It is remarkable to see ruins, plus the work others continue to put into the protection and restoration of the temples. I can only provide photos; enjoy.
Dionysus, god of wine, TheaterParthenon, columns lean slightly in!Dionysus at corner of Parthenon Erechtheion built in 5th Century BC on top of remains from structure destroyed 60 years earlier by Persians.Side view of Erechtheion
The Acropolis Museum is an archeological site-specific museum. The architect chose to build above the ruins. Inside the museum are 3 floors of Ancient Greek structures, mythology and history. It’s a place that was amazing and yet I really only saw a fraction of it! But here was the ruin below:
I’ll be back in a day or so… have some food to eat and cook!
I joined a day tour to 3 hilltop towns beyond Brindisi. Advantages: meet other travelers, as I did. Two each from Canada, England, Germany, Spain and 1 from Brazil plus me. Guide plans itinerary and transportation, a nice break for a solo traveler. Disadvantage: when you want to leave a town, you’re on an itinerary for 3 towns and other people. Patience … and life goes on! Fortunately a couple of us enjoyed our time together and could talk and laugh through the day.
First town, Alberobello, was most interesting to see the trulli, the stone conical roofed huts, that are most numerous in the area in this town. They were originally built as a shelter when farming, etc and eventually people added rooms. Strict regulations are now enforced in this UNESCO town. Half can be tourist shops and other half for residential living in and/or B&B accommodations. Renovation of a trullo (plural is trulli) must be by a certified person who knows what to do with this dry stone construction. I noticed some trullo for sale but I imagined a larger cost would be in renovation!
Trullo
Wished we could see a few…
Inside a staged trulloThe non-touristy side of town!
We did an olive oil tasting. I must say every olive oil presenter has an interesting way to talk about this oil. Here he said don’t “paint your food” with the oil as he demonstrated numerous circular motions. (Like one was pouring a quarter cup of oil on whatever!) Instead one should see, smell and then small taste of the oil with only a few drops of oil on your food. If you need more than that it is not the best olive oil! Hmmm…will have to take more notice of my olive oil.
Onto Locorotondo, a smaller hilltop town. Stopped at a couple of churches. Church of San Nicolas … prompted Santa Claus!?!
Church of San Nicolas
Last town on our tour was Ostuni. Its buildings are all whitewashed, a requirement, and has its place in history as do the other towns. Our guide studied it all and attempted to have all the history make sense for us. Quite honestly though, it was a very warm day and I had been overwhelmed with history! We returned to Brindisi and I enjoyed a walk along the waterfront, then dinner with a glass of red wine. A previous night a piano player was nearby, not at this place, darn! Overall a good day, but important now to relax! It is the only way to maintain a healthy pace when traveling.
Immediately you notice how quiet Brindisi is! Then you’ll feel a breeze, nice. Wind flows onto this coastal town and at times it is gusting. I’ve given up wearing a hat because of the wind! Plenty of statues, monuments, churches and places to eat. I like the pedestrian-only areas and there are many benches for people-watching time. I tried sketching there too, but the wind makes it difficult.
Photos from my wandering:
Monument to the Italian Sailor in background; one of a few fishermen in foreground.Duomo di San GiovanniInside of Duomo di San Giovanni
Cooked pasta then swirled around in a cheese bowl is definitely a tourist trap, but why not see it done! Meal was so-so.
Pasta swirled around in cheese bowl.
Pasta-making class: My habit is to arrive early to activities. What I discovered in Italy is to arrive on time. I fear I have flustered my hosts when arriving early! I happen to be the only one at this pasta-making class. The chef’s family grows all the vegetables. The female chef’s goal is to not only teach pasta-making but also to incorporate vegetables. She had a photographic area showing the generations this family had lived and started a winery right here in their home! I also discovered she works with Down’s syndrome young people so they learn appropriate cleaning, cooking and/or farming skills. So besides her classes, the front area is a vegetable shop and other rooms are her restaurant all in the space that was her grandfather’s winery.
Now to make pasta! Very nice table set-up with all my supplies; we add water to the semolina and when ready, this took me a bit of time, begin to knead the dough! Long story short, we made different shaped pastas. I was excited to learn how to make orecchiette! It’ll be decades before I could ever make that pasta as fast as the women in Trieste! Here are my final products:
Took me forever to make each orecchiette!!!Some other pasta shapes and with cauliflower for this meal! Thankfully I had help!
The meal was delicious as were the white and rosé sparkling wines! Time for a walk, then to prepare for tomorrow’s day trip to 3 local towns. See you there!
Did you notice food tours and pasta-making classes are my favorite activities when I travel? Yes, especially as a solo traveler! They are opportunities to interact with other travelers, eat good food and learn new things about the area that I’ll continue to wander around in the upcoming days.
But first I wanted to walk away from city center, along the coast and have a good appetite for my pasta-making and eating later in the day. It’s a beautiful sunny day and always with a wind; a joy of being on a coast! I discover a 10km race is happening and they too are going my way! So I felt like all of us were on a walk-run activity. I cheered them on, even as I noticed no sidewalk spectators did, and also offered to take group photos as needed. Never planned any of that interaction, but it was fun! I turned around at their 4km sign to head back to city center.
A beautiful day for a walk.And for some to run… or walk.Or parasail… others were sailing and surfing!And I observed this egret and some black-winged stilts on a thin canal.
Later in the day was pasta-making time! This pasta-making class was with 14 other people at a restaurant! We made tiramisu, a couple of pastas with a pasta-making machine, and then sat down to eat! We started with prosecco at a fine dining table. The restaurant doesn’t open till 7:30PM so we’ll be out just before then.
Restaurant style!Equipment for all!
We made the tiramisu and pastas with all levels of success. I think I’m catching on how to use the machine. Our chef only spoke Italian so we had a translator. My fellow participants were from Romania, Germany, Denmark, Tunisia and 2 other people from USA.
I loved the Primitivo wine with my meal and we finished it all with limoncello! Tomorrow morning I have time to walk and relax before catching a train to Brindisi.
My longest train ride is happening right now as I head to Bari from Bologna. My goal is to visit the southeastern coast of Italy for a first time; but what a long 6 hour train ride!
Finally arrived, checked in at my lodging and off to the waterfront with its couple of ports and plenty of boats! As one looks east from Bari, Italy to Albania, which you cannot see, just know it is an 8-10 hour ferry ride across the Adriatic Sea. Albania is where I started this trip 6 weeks ago!
Anyway, I’m here now to see this city and explore the food! Walking the lungomare, a walkway along the coast, I stopped in at Teatro Margherita where an art exhibit was happening. Various materials were used by the artists to create their work; here are some:
Sofia Loren created with various media
These artists are talented!
Bari’s “old town” was crowded with people as I walked the narrow places and was near Castello Svevo. It was a castle built around 1132 by Norman King Roger II. I thought it a fortress, it is huge! No, it was a castle in its day and now a museum.
Plenty of churches in this town! Huge basilicas … amazing construction when one thinks of the century they were built!! Basilica of Saint Nicholas (San Nicola), houses his relics brought from present day Turkey. It was consecrated in 1197 and is a pilgrimage site for Catholics and Orthodox Christians. Apparently he is the inspiration behind Santa Claus.
At San Nicola, a gilded wooden ceiling!!
Cathedral of Saint Sabinus (San Sabino) does have an entrance fee allowing one to also visit the museum and see archeological ruins. Churches were built one upon another through the centuries. I was amazed to see some of the old mosaics floors many feet below the current church.
No way to capture the size and beauty of this church!Ruins of an older church underneath this one.Notice mosaics on this underground floor!
Of course I joined a street food tour! Wherever I am in the world I love knowing about the food of the region. Plus each local guide puts their spin on the food so I always learn more and eat in good company! A panzerotto is similar to a fried calzone but only with tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. It washes down nicely with a glass of Primitivo wine! Next we had focaccia with delicious olive oil, tomatoes and olives, yum! Our orecchiette pasta with tomato sauce was okay, but I loved the one served in olive oil. Italians cook their pasta al dente, cooked to be firm to the bite, supposedly to help our digestive system. Gelato was our final tasting! What I learned new on this tour is that the gelato should not be out in swirls for all to see, but to stay within their metal bins to retain the best tasting gelato and served from there!
Panzerotto cut in half.Orecchiette
This woman could make that pasta with here eyes closed!
Wow!
Other photos are below. I did not try an octopus sandwich. I’ve eaten octopus, but apparently there is a place here with the best sandwich! Tomorrow I want to see a beach and then I have a cooking class! That will be part 2… Caio!
Best gelato and they have a place in Manhattan, New York City!Wind and downpour just as this bride stepped into San Nicola Church.Always wander when you travel!How often will you see red peppers that size? Keep wandering!
My next couple of days in Bologna were to be all about food; however, I took a slight detour and decided to add a walk which ended up being quite a hike! Maybe it was a good idea between all this carbo-loading!
First, my pasta-cooking class was with 4 other people. Our instructor demonstrated each step. Having the pasta dough just right was the biggest challenge, followed by use of the machine to get a thinner dough to make a noodle. But when all works, it is great fun! Here are some photos as we made tagliatelle and tortellini.
Starting pointDry 5 minutes, then cook!Both of these were fun to make!
We then made tiramisu, checked out how he made a basic tomato sauce, and a ragu, and finally sat down to eat it all. Wine was served also. It was a good experience. We all had fun!
TiramisuLoved this sauce and simple to make!RaguDelicious!Also delicious!
I was on the side of Bologna where the Sanctuary of San Luca is located on a hilltop. After eating pasta and little wine, I thought it a great idea to walk to the site. Porta Saragozza is the longest portico in the world with 666 archways connecting the city to the sanctuary. I already walked more than a mile to my cooking class, what’s another 2.5 miles to see the church with a cupola and 360 degree view of Bologna! BTW, the portico was first being built in in 1647 and is UNESCO World Heritage site in 2021.
As I mentioned, on a hilltop, so it was all uphill! No wonder some took a ride up instead of the hike. Then I returned the same way! The views in and outside were beautiful. Here are some photos:
It’s all uphill!I am almost to the top!Wow, everything is huge and cupola above!A side chapel The grounds are beautiful too! Now to hike down!
Next day I joined a street food tour! Fun with 12 other people as we ate various meats, pasta, drank wine, tried 3 differently aged balsamic vinegars and enjoyed gelato! Now that I’ve explored this region I’ll be off to Bari, the Puglia (or Apulia) region for food tour and a pasta-making class there. Here are photos from today:
By the way, these towers are leaning in Bologna:
Canals are here too, just not so obvious!
Really the best part of my day today … when I stopped in again at a place for a glass of wine and the man at the bar called me by name! OMG, I love when at a cafe or place recognizes me and knows my drink because I have made a coffee or wine place a daily stop during my time in a town. Only then do I feel I’ve arrived and not someone simply looking in on a place. What a joy!
I confess! A large meal/dinner after 7pm does not work for me. If I did eat then, I would need to stay active till after 11pm! Okay, that’s not happening.
Instead, for my 7pm time, I discovered “Bottega Botle” so I could try any amount of wine from a dispenser, with available snacks, and a tablet with info about the wine I was drinking. Cool! What’s not to enjoy? I may return!
However, before all of that evening fun, I saw many Basilicas and markets as I wandered the streets of Bologna. Here are some I stopped at as I began to understand why it takes decades to build these magnificent cathedrals! Just hauling a column into place seems a massive undertaking to me!
First, statue of Neptune!Basilica of San Petronio with Meridian Sundial! This is the 6th largest brick church in the world, 22 chapels and 2 oldest working organs besides the sundial!I was there at noon.Palazzo Dell’Archiginnasio, built 1562!Biblioteca deli ArchginnasiaSanta Maria della Vita
Fish markets, meat markets and if you walk the touristy main road you can find all kinds of things!
I stopped for late lunch and with my beer came olives and potato chips, followed by my spaghetti alla carbonara. I am forever a critic and this is still not my best meal. I travel on!
Late in the day I stopped in at Bottega Botle and that was fun. Met other travelers from California and enjoyed various wine and delicious mortadella bologna! Great place to try various wines!
Life for me now has changed as our tour group heads home and I stay on as a solo traveler. My goal is to spend time on the eastern coast of Italy. Now to see the Adriatic Sea from another view!
Note Bologna, Bari, Brindisi
Visiting Trieste, Italy first….
I am only here for 2 nights so I immediately headed toward the Grand Canal. Plenty of cafes along the canal, jellyfish in the water, and musicians playing.
There were many jellyfish!
I stepped into churches: Saint Antonio Taumaturgo and a Serbian Orthodox one. Each beautiful. Then I walked to the huge Piazza Unità d’Italia where a “Maker Faire” was happening. Tons of people at booths checking out puzzles, 3-D printing, robotics and I return here the next day too. So many displays! Really fascinating, but I wanted to walk the Molo Audace, a long pier out into the water. People are walking or sitting and enjoying the simple rock pier. After walking the waterfront and back by side streets and seeing numerous statues, I decided to eat. My pizza with eggplant at Barattalo restaurant was delicious!
The next day I considered going to Miramare Castle. It was built in 1856 -60 for Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian. I figured it and the gardens would be beautiful. I was too early to catch the Delfino Verde ferry for the 50 minute ride, so I decided to visit other places I had in mind. (BTW… ferry to and bus 6 back was the recommendation to me for Miramare, in case you want to easily get there from Trieste.)
I headed to San Giusto, a healthy uphill hike from the waterfront. I worked my way past a couple of old churches to the Cathedral of San Giusto and attended mass. Interesting listening to the Italian language spoken and sung by a choir. Of course the “peace be with you” handshake was clearly understood as I shook my neighbor’s hands.
Mosaic work was unbelievably beautiful!
Walking down a rocky hill isn’t the easiest. I stopped at some ruins, such as the Arch of Riccardo and the Roman Theater and was glad to be on level ground at the “Maker Faire” again. I loved seeing people of all ages engaged in the activities.
My late lunch was at La Caprese Trattoria and there I had spaghetti with eggplant and clams. I have been drinking small Moretti beers with my meals.
Then hours were spent at the Revotella Palace and Gallery of Modern Art. Baron Pasquale Revoltella, in 1872, left his artwork, books and furniture…. his house to the city! I walked through the modern art museum first and then this historic house! Amazing paintings, sculptures and some info in English, but all easy enough to follow. The house is opulent!
Not your ordinary house!
Can pasta-making be this much fun? I’ve given it a try in Croatia and will again Bologna. Wow, that’s how she makes that shape!?!
This step, then shaped on her finger!
As I was winding down my day, I decided to try an aperitif which is typically a pre-dinner drink. My late lunch was already enough food, but I decided to try an Aperol spritz. If I like it, maybe in the upcoming weeks I’ll enjoy it as a pre-dinner drink … like it is meant to be!
Got to admit, great advertising there!
So the drink has aperol: a blend of bitter orange, rhubarb, cinchona, and gentian with Prosecco and soda water. A fresh orange slice is a garnish. (I researched cinchona – comes from an evergreen tree in South America and the bark contains quinine. Cinchona is used to treat malaria and possibly irregular heartbeats. I see it is used as a pre-dinner drink to increase appetite.) Okay now knowing all that, I can decide if it will continue to be my drink of choice! I’m still wrapping my head around eating dinner after 7pm. So far I like a late lunch. But one also has to eat before 3:30pm as many places close till 7pm.
I walked 10 miles in 2 days and still have more to see plus Miramare Castle. I’ll have to return another time. Off to Bologna… I’ll post again in a couple of days.
