For the Birds in the Balkans

Bullfinch

Before my trip, I used colored markers and tried to be aware of some birds I may hear and/or see on my trip. Above is one possible bird.

My travel through the Balkan countries: Albania, Montenegro, Croatia, Bosnia-Herzegovina and Slovenia was not a “birding trip”. However, I cannot help but notice when birds are or are not around. Then if I have some time I like to read about the bird and sketch it. I only used pencil to keep my backpack light in weight on this trip.

Of course, if it is a new bird for my life list, that is very exciting. But what I also noticed, is if I think I know the bird and work to identify it, the bird may be a totally different name and a new bird for me, such as the shag you’ll see in a sketch below. Surprisingly I knew house sparrows are all over the world. In Albania though, it got listed as a new bird in my life list. Had I never listed that bird before? Wow, I guess not!

Eight new birds in Albania, seven in Croatia and three in Bosnia-Herzegovina. No new birds in Montenegro and Slovenia since the birds there were already seen in a previous country.

Here are some quick sketches. Nothing is to scale!

In Albania
In Croatia
Also in Croatia
In Bosnia-Herzegovina
In Slovenia

Will I see new birds in Italy and Greece? Time will tell!

Istrian Peninsula: Part 1 of 4: Poreč, Croatia

On a tip of the Istrian Peninsula you’ll find the town of Poreč where we stay 5 nights and visit different areas from this point. The luxury of 5 nights in one location! Love it; unpacking and stay!

As we traveled from Ljubljana, Slovenia to here, past road construction and traffic, olive trees, vineyards and countryside, we stopped at a small, family prosciutteria. It was fascinating to learn about the male pig’s hind legs being prepared and cured, plus the use of a horse’s fibula to check the meat. With the expertise of our host at this family, she can smell the fibula that is inserted and pulled out from the aged leg to know if it is a good product or not. This family ages their pork naturally with windows opened and closed as they determine the specific temperature, wind, and humidity needed in the rooms where the meat hangs. Industrial places using modern technology and air conditioning is different than their process.

Hang for 1 to 3 years.
Various aged prosciutto

We walked in a nearby hill town, Stanjel, Croatia. I really loved the gardens and views from here.

Wow!

Interestingly, while we waited for our ride, I noticed this electric charging station, actually it is for 6 e-bikes. There are many bicyclists and with the hills in this country I am not surprised that many are e-bikes. How fantastic to have a charging station for them!

Charging station for e-bikes. It extends for 6 bikes.

Dinner and a walk to enjoy the sunset.

Perfect ending to this day. See you tomorrow!

Lake Bled, Slovenia and More

The water in Lake Bled at this time of year is simply beautiful. Here it is…

We drove from Ljubljana to Lake Bled through green countryside to arrive at this scenic spot. High above the lake, clinging to the rocky cliff, is an 800 year old castle which we visited. 

Castle on the cliff

In the middle of the lake is a 17th century church which we rode a pletna to get to it. A pletna is a boat similar to a gondola.

A pletna
Off to the islet to visit the church

We had fantastic weather for this day trip as we climbed the steps to these locations and learned about this area’s history. We returned to Ljubljana by way of Radovljica for lunch and a walk through the town.

Back at Ljubljana we also had a snack … one that went to space! You may know the info about NASA astronaut,  Sunita Williams, celebrating her heritage by bringing a traditional Carniolan sausage, kranjska klobasa, to the International Space Station in 2006. (Info is specifically on the sign.)

Celebrates her mixed heritage

Yes, I got a chance to taste this sausage! It was delicious with a touch of mustard. Others added horse radish.

Or eat it with no condiment; the sausage is delicious!

The next day we cruised on Ljubljanica River, I visited with my Slovenian friend who I met in Naples, Italy a couple of years ago, and my fellow travelers and I had our farewell dinner. A few of us will now continue with a new guide for 5 nights as we explore the Istria area of Croatia and sleep in Poreč. I’ll be back in a few days. Look at this food in the photos below… so tasty!

My friend and I shared this cibanica… it has 4 layers: poppy seeds, curd cheese, walnuts and apples separated by filo (phyllo) dough. Light and delicious and was served warm.
We shared this also -jabolčna pita which is apple pie… yum!

Green Slovenia!

While we drove toward Postojna Cave in Slovenia, I thought I was in upstate New York! The rolling hillsides with varied shades of green remind me of upstate NY’s countryside. But in the distance the treeless, sharp-edged 8K to 9,000 foot rock of the Julian Alps is seen and I realize I am in Slovenia!

Postojna Cave is a must see! I have been in many caves and this one is huge and beautiful in its own way.  It is the only one I have ever entered by railway. The small railcar takes you on a 15 minute, 3.7km ride through the cave; duck your head if you are tall person! Then you walk 1.2km through the cave looking at a variety of cave formations. There is an audio guide that explains the karst formations you are looking at which is very helpful. This cave is huge and all I could wonder about is who discovered this and what a find!! 

Walkway surface in cave felt very safe.
At the start of rail car ride… soon to enter cave. Staff are very well organized at this popular site. It is not a UNESCO site, but a nearby one of 4 other caves is. This cave may be a future UNESCO site.

Plus in the cave, there is a sightless, whitish with red tufts amphibian only found here called an olm. They can go without food for 10 years, live for 100 years and is the largest animal in the cave. Legends abound about this “baby dragon”. They had a few in an aquarium while we were in the cave so we could see them. However, no photos could be taken to protect them. This photo is of a video display the info board provided.

An olm is a cave salamander about 8-12 inches long.

No photos really capture the cave, but here are some. I’ll continue with Slovenia tomorrow.

Best to visit!

Hike at Plitvice Lakes

It’s a couple of hours drive from Zagreb to this UNESCO World Heritage Site, Plitvice Lakes. We stopped at a small town where waterfalls were running under people’s homes! I spent some time talking with a bicyclist. He had a fully loaded bike. It is his first adventure. He is German and started in Germany with hopes to cycle through the Balkan countries and finish in Turkey in two months.

Waterfall under a home in this small town.
Bicyclist stopping for lunch at this small town. There are no bike lanes on the road to the national park, Plitvice Lakes.

I had seen a Rick Steves program about the 16 turquoise lakes linked by waterfalls which Plitvice Lakes is known for. On our day hike we only saw 4 of the lakes and the “Big Waterfall”. Plenty of wildflowers; I saw a trout in the water and others did see a frog. Only a few birds were heard. Despite it not being peak season, there were plenty of tourists on the paths and boardwalk. I think the photos show its beauty.

Off to another town in Croatia to make pasta! I’ll be back in a couple of days!

Zagreb, Croatia … The Capital

We walked the Lower and Upper Towns in this city which now has 800,000 people and close to a million people, if you consider the outskirts. The Upper Town has the cathedral and Lower Town was merchant area. The funicular, shortest in Europe, was not operating … maybe because it was Monday? Many museums were not open on Mondays too; however, I found time to enjoy a cup of cappuccino after one museum visit. There is definitely an Austrian-Hungarian influence here. I almost feel like I am in Vienna. If I had a piece of strudel with my cappuccino I would believe I was!

I stopped in at the Museum of Naïve Art. Sort of a strange name. “Peasant artists” were called “naïve artists” at one time when collection of their work, paintings and sculptures, began in 1952. These individuals had no formal art education/instruction but their work had a recognizable style and were collected. Eventually the museum’s name changed to what it is now.

Paintings and sculptures at museum
Gas lamps still lit around the city.

Fellow travelers said the Museum of Cartoons was very good. Also the Museum of Broken Relationships was interesting. One story I heard is a broken relationship with gluten! See, relationships of all sorts are presented. Apparently the NYTimes wrote an article about that museum and there are people sending something and their broken relationship story to this museum.

Much reconstruction is happening in the city since the March 2020 earthquake. They are still working on the cathedral’s spires. The bells survived and are safely inside the cathedral at the moment.

Cathedral’s towers being restored.
Cathedral
Main square in Zagreb

We took a bus out to the city’s public cemetery and walked around. It is very expensive to be buried here, plus with an annual fee. It is huge but I loved being among the trees.

Public cemetery

Back to the city where the red umbrellas are you will find an outdoor market. Underground is the market for all foods needing refrigeration. There I saw plenty of meats and cheeses!

Walk in crosswalk, bicyclists on red path.

Tomorrow we are at Plitvice Lakes. I am looking forward to our hiking time and hopefully to see some birds! 

Life in Karanac, Croatia

We stayed at a “living history” farmstead in Karanac, a small farming village. Each property has a narrow front yard with a long depth of land. This is to their advantage since their property tax bill is determined by the frontage measurement. I liked the fact they have the road, then a strip of grass, sidewalk and then the front of the home. It makes for a spaciousness in the area even though this is a rural area already.

Road, grass then home.

Upon our arrival we made cheese for the following morning’s breakfast. A plain cheese and the other was with dill and garlic. Learning the cheese-making process and eating our final products was wonderful. 

Final cheese product the next day

The son is 8th generation on this land. He showed us the vegetable garden for home use and pointed out the chickens, quail, fruit trees, etc that they produce many products to barter and/or sell. The family works hard throughout the year. All is organic and they rotate their crops to keep their land healthy too. 

Our cooking opportunities came in making fry bread for breakfast and learning how to make goulash in clay pots for lunch. All the food, consisting of meats, vegetables, cheeses, jams and bread, was delicious!

The mother of the household is a master at stenciling. With the advent of wallpaper, fewer people need to stencil an entire wall; however, with her work you would never realize this is not wallpaper. She has collected many rollers with patterns and is very well known for her stencil work!

Our lunch was enjoyed at another family’s home. A few of us had lunch with a couple. They have 4 children and work in a nearby town. We talked about taxes, healthcare, elder care and various other things. Interestingly, with each birth there is 3 years of leave allowed so this woman has maintained her work position even with the birth of 4 children. Yes, a large percentage from salary goes to these benefits. While they wish they could be lower, they do appreciate the ability to have the paid time, even if it be 70%, to provide care as needed.

The next day we have a long ride to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. I’ll be back in a few days!

Sarajevo, Part 2 of 3

Sarajevo was founded by the Ottomans in the 15th Century, at a time when Jews, Croats, Serbs, Bosnians and Turks got along. We walked the town with a local guide. Proudly Sarajevo hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics, but since the Yugoslav War of the 1990’s most people have forgotten Sarajevo’s proud moment.

Our local guide talked of the Bosnian Serb artillery pounding this city for 3.5 years in the early 1990’s. We can see buildings that were attacked and so many others either restored or newly rebuilt. We stopped in at a mosque, a church and other historical points.

Gazi Husrev Beg’s Mosque
Cathedral of Jesus’ Sacred Heart

After a demonstration by a coppersmith and lunch, some of us took a cable car ride up to where the bobsled and luge starts were at the 1984 Winter Olympics. I also got a chance to listen to the birds and may have a couple of new ones for my life list!

Bobsled and luge tracks met here

Two of us were on our way down and jumped into a cable car with 6 guys. Their teacher was apoplectic at first, speaking a Slavic language we did not understand. After a few minutes, I noticed one young man wearing a New York sweatshirt. We started talking. He knew enough English to then translate to his teacher and peers! The guy next to me asked if he could take a photo with me and that prompted me taking a photo of them and my fellow traveler. Once out of the cable car, we shook hands.

Finally on good terms with these guys!

One thing we did agree on was the delicious food, especially the ćevapi.

Ćevapi … Delicious!!!

I visited the Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide, 1992-1995. Conflict/war is horrible, especially when fought with artillery and leaving behind utter destruction of lives and cities. Depressing to see what all the people endured. We’ll learn more tomorrow, but I hope you can read the sign with the statistics on it. 

So much info on this sign!
Messages
More messages of peace
Important message!

I’ll be back with part 3 to finish my visit in Sarajevo area.

Montenegro: Our Day Trip

Montenegro is a small Balkan country surrounded by the Adriatic Sea and all these countries: Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Kosovo and Albania! (Montenegro is the size of Connecticut, for my USA readers to have a sense of its size.) We drove along the coastline during our pre-trip days of adventure in Albania to Dubrovnik, Croatia to meet our main trip fellow travelers. The Adriatic Sea has so many beautiful and different blues!

Perast, Montenegro

We returned to Montenegro now to spend a day in the towns of Perast and Kotor. I’ll leave the photos to show how the landscape climbs up from the water’s edge to mountaintops! Loved every view! There were clouds and rain throughout this day, but we saw great views when the sun shined!

Perast, Montenegro

We took a boat ride from Perast, around Our Lady of the Rocks, to Kotor, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Lady of the Rocks is a man-made island. A fisherman, according to legend, found an icon of the Holy Mother of God after a shipwreck. As seamen passed by on their big boats they dropped stones and eventually built a church in 1630. As we went by the island, each of us threw in a small stone.

Our Lady of the Rocks

Old Town Kotor is a medieval walled town at the end of the Bay of Kotor surrounded by mountains. We could see how it was not destroyed as were other towns, such as Dubrovnik. A local guide pointed out a few of the remaining numerous churches. People do live still within these walls.

Fortress higher on the mountain
Orthodox Church within city wall
Notice the clear water!
Only 2 cruise ships per day allowed. I first thought it a building!

I’ll be back in a few days with posts. Till then, traveling on!

Agua Caliente Park in March/April 2026

“Agua caliente” in Spanish means hot water. Here in Tucson, Arizona where this park is located it is very hot right now! We are twenty degrees warmer than the average temperature this time of year. No one is really enjoying it, especially the wildlife. Not every animal or plant can burrow into the ground or have enough energy to travel to a distant cooler location. Their survival rate can be affected. And similar to humans, animals can dehydrate and be in need of shade.

Things we can do to help wildlife: Provide shallow water containers with resting stones. Even bees can make use of it and not drown or have a way for small animals to move out of the water. Change the water often to keep it clean, disease-free and don’t use a metal container that will get hot. Provide shade and shelter. A good reason to not prune bushes right now. Lizards and others will hide out in those spaces. I’m sure if you research this topic you’ll find more suggestions.

Here’s what I did see at Agua Caliente Park in Tucson:

Cormorants spread their wings to dry them after swimming to catch fish or frogs, etc.