history Archives

Towns Beyond Brindisi!

June 11, 2026May 24, 2026Posted in blogging, history, Italy, TravelTagged blogging, history, international travel, solo travel, travelLeave a comment

I joined a day tour to 3 hilltop towns beyond Brindisi. Advantages: meet other travelers, as I did. Two each from Canada, England, Germany, Spain and 1 from Brazil plus me. Guide plans itinerary and transportation, a nice break for a solo traveler. Disadvantage: when you want to leave a town, you’re on an itinerary for 3 towns and other people. Patience … and life goes on! Fortunately a couple of us enjoyed our time together and could talk and laugh through the day.

First town, Alberobello, was most interesting to see the trulli, the stone conical roofed huts, that are most numerous in the area in this town. They were originally built as a shelter when farming, etc and eventually people added rooms. Strict regulations are now enforced in this UNESCO town. Half can be tourist shops and other half for residential living in and/or B&B accommodations. Renovation of a trullo (plural is trulli) must be by a certified person who knows what to do with this dry stone construction. I noticed some trullo for sale but I imagined a larger cost would be in renovation!

Wished we could see a few…

We did an olive oil tasting. I must say every olive oil presenter has an interesting way to talk about this oil. Here he said don’t “paint your food” with the oil as he demonstrated numerous circular motions. (Like one was pouring a quarter cup of oil on whatever!) Instead one should see, smell and then small taste of the oil with only a few drops of oil on your food. If you need more than that it is not the best olive oil! Hmmm…will have to take more notice of my olive oil.

Onto Locorotondo, a smaller hilltop town. Stopped at a couple of churches. Church of San Nicolas … prompted Santa Claus!?!

Last town on our tour was Ostuni. Its buildings are all whitewashed, a requirement, and has its place in history as do the other towns. Our guide studied it all and attempted to have all the history make sense for us. Quite honestly though, it was a very warm day and I had been overwhelmed with history! We returned to Brindisi and I enjoyed a walk along the waterfront, then dinner with a glass of red wine. A previous night a piano player was nearby, not at this place, darn! Overall a good day, but important now to relax! It is the only way to maintain a healthy pace when traveling.

Discovering Bari, Italy! Part 1 of 2.

June 6, 2026May 19, 2026Posted in blogging, Food, Italy, Travel, writingTagged blogging, food, history, international travel, Local food, travelLeave a comment

My longest train ride is happening right now as I head to Bari from Bologna. My goal is to visit the southeastern coast of Italy for a first time; but what a long 6 hour train ride!

Finally arrived, checked in at my lodging and off to the waterfront with its couple of ports and plenty of boats! As one looks east from Bari, Italy to Albania, which you cannot see, just know it is an 8-10 hour ferry ride across the Adriatic Sea. Albania is where I started this trip 6 weeks ago!

Anyway, I’m here now to see this city and explore the food! Walking the lungomare, a walkway along the coast, I stopped in at Teatro Margherita where an art exhibit was happening. Various materials were used by the artists to create their work; here are some:

These artists are talented!

Bari’s “old town” was crowded with people as I walked the narrow places and was near Castello Svevo. It was a castle built around 1132 by Norman King Roger II. I thought it a fortress, it is huge! No, it was a castle in its day and now a museum.

Plenty of churches in this town! Huge basilicas … amazing construction when one thinks of the century they were built!! Basilica of Saint Nicholas (San Nicola), houses his relics brought from present day Turkey. It was consecrated in 1197 and is a pilgrimage site for Catholics and Orthodox Christians. Apparently he is the inspiration behind Santa Claus.

At San Nicola, a gilded wooden ceiling!!

Cathedral of Saint Sabinus (San Sabino) does have an entrance fee allowing one to also visit the museum and see archeological ruins. Churches were built one upon another through the centuries. I was amazed to see some of the old mosaics floors many feet below the current church.

No way to capture the size and beauty of this church!

Ruins of an older church underneath this one.

Notice mosaics on this underground floor!

Of course I joined a street food tour! Wherever I am in the world I love knowing about the food of the region. Plus each local guide puts their spin on the food so I always learn more and eat in good company! A panzerotto is similar to a fried calzone but only with tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. It washes down nicely with a glass of Primitivo wine! Next we had focaccia with delicious olive oil, tomatoes and olives, yum! Our orecchiette pasta with tomato sauce was okay, but I loved the one served in olive oil. Italians cook their pasta al dente, cooked to be firm to the bite, supposedly to help our digestive system. Gelato was our final tasting! What I learned new on this tour is that the gelato should not be out in swirls for all to see, but to stay within their metal bins to retain the best tasting gelato and served from there!

This woman could make that pasta with here eyes closed!

Other photos are below. I did not try an octopus sandwich. I’ve eaten octopus, but apparently there is a place here with the best sandwich! Tomorrow I want to see a beach and then I have a cooking class! That will be part 2… Caio!

Best gelato and they have a place in Manhattan, New York City!

Wind and downpour just as this bride stepped into San Nicola Church.

How often will you see red peppers that size? Keep wandering!

Basilicas Followed by Wine in Bologna, Italy; Part 1 of 2

June 3, 2026May 13, 2026Posted in blogging, Food, history, Italy, Travel, writingTagged blogging, food, history, Local food, travelLeave a comment

I confess! A large meal/dinner after 7pm does not work for me. If I did eat then, I would need to stay active till after 11pm! Okay, that’s not happening.

Instead, for my 7pm time, I discovered “Bottega Botle” so I could try any amount of wine from a dispenser, with available snacks, and a tablet with info about the wine I was drinking. Cool! What’s not to enjoy? I may return!

However, before all of that evening fun, I saw many Basilicas and markets as I wandered the streets of Bologna. Here are some I stopped at as I began to understand why it takes decades to build these magnificent cathedrals! Just hauling a column into place seems a massive undertaking to me!

Basilica of San Petronio with Meridian Sundial! This is the 6th largest brick church in the world, 22 chapels and 2 oldest working organs besides the sundial!

Fish markets, meat markets and if you walk the touristy main road you can find all kinds of things!

I stopped for late lunch and with my beer came olives and potato chips, followed by my spaghetti alla carbonara. I am forever a critic and this is still not my best meal. I travel on!

Late in the day I stopped in at Bottega Botle and that was fun. Met other travelers from California and enjoyed various wine and delicious mortadella bologna! Great place to try various wines!

Tomorrow, no basilicas… all food!

Solo Travel in Italy

May 31, 2026May 12, 2026Posted in adventure travel, blogging, history, Italy, Travel, writingTagged blogging, food, history, Italy, Local food, solo travel, travelLeave a comment

Life for me now has changed as our tour group heads home and I stay on as a solo traveler. My goal is to spend time on the eastern coast of Italy. Now to see the Adriatic Sea from another view!

Visiting Trieste, Italy first….

I am only here for 2 nights so I immediately headed toward the Grand Canal. Plenty of cafes along the canal, jellyfish in the water, and musicians playing.

I stepped into churches: Saint Antonio Taumaturgo and a Serbian Orthodox one. Each beautiful. Then I walked to the huge Piazza Unità d’Italia where a “Maker Faire” was happening. Tons of people at booths checking out puzzles, 3-D printing, robotics and I return here the next day too. So many displays! Really fascinating, but I wanted to walk the Molo Audace, a long pier out into the water. People are walking or sitting and enjoying the simple rock pier. After walking the waterfront and back by side streets and seeing numerous statues, I decided to eat. My pizza with eggplant at Barattalo restaurant was delicious!

The next day I considered going to Miramare Castle. It was built in 1856 -60 for Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian. I figured it and the gardens would be beautiful. I was too early to catch the Delfino Verde ferry for the 50 minute ride, so I decided to visit other places I had in mind. (BTW… ferry to and bus 6 back was the recommendation to me for Miramare, in case you want to easily get there from Trieste.)

I headed to San Giusto, a healthy uphill hike from the waterfront. I worked my way past a couple of old churches to the Cathedral of San Giusto and attended mass. Interesting listening to the Italian language spoken and sung by a choir. Of course the “peace be with you” handshake was clearly understood as I shook my neighbor’s hands.

Walking down a rocky hill isn’t the easiest. I stopped at some ruins, such as the Arch of Riccardo and the Roman Theater and was glad to be on level ground at the “Maker Faire” again. I loved seeing people of all ages engaged in the activities.

My late lunch was at La Caprese Trattoria and there I had spaghetti with eggplant and clams. I have been drinking small Moretti beers with my meals.

Then hours were spent at the Revotella Palace and Gallery of Modern Art. Baron Pasquale Revoltella, in 1872, left his artwork, books and furniture…. his house to the city! I walked through the modern art museum first and then this historic house! Amazing paintings, sculptures and some info in English, but all easy enough to follow. The house is opulent!

Can pasta-making be this much fun? I’ve given it a try in Croatia and will again Bologna. Wow, that’s how she makes that shape!?!

As I was winding down my day, I decided to try an aperitif which is typically a pre-dinner drink. My late lunch was already enough food, but I decided to try an Aperol spritz. If I like it, maybe in the upcoming weeks I’ll enjoy it as a pre-dinner drink … like it is meant to be!

So the drink has aperol: a blend of bitter orange, rhubarb, cinchona, and gentian with Prosecco and soda water. A fresh orange slice is a garnish. (I researched cinchona – comes from an evergreen tree in South America and the bark contains quinine. Cinchona is used to treat malaria and possibly irregular heartbeats. I see it is used as a pre-dinner drink to increase appetite.) Okay now knowing all that, I can decide if it will continue to be my drink of choice! I’m still wrapping my head around eating dinner after 7pm. So far I like a late lunch. But one also has to eat before 3:30pm as many places close till 7pm.

I walked 10 miles in 2 days and still have more to see plus Miramare Castle. I’ll have to return another time. Off to Bologna… I’ll post again in a couple of days.

Istrian Peninsula: Part 3 of 4, Rovinj, Croatia

May 26, 2026May 8, 2026Posted in blogging, history, Travel, writingTagged blogging, history, international travel, travel, wineLeave a comment

We drove south the first part of our day to a seaside town, Rovinj. Upon our arrival, we see houses along the coastline and then on top of the hill is Church of Saint Euphemia. People could truly jump out of their window into the water below, if they wished Probably not, but the homes are straight up from the coast!

Later in the day we did stop in the church. The steeple also functions as a weather vane. Here too is plenty of history.

We walked around this town and fishing port. Stopped by the fresh market too.

Fourteen islands are just offshore from here, some of thousand plus islands off Croatia. Rovinj does have pedestrian-only area and plenty of shops. We enjoyed a cappuccino as we looked out on the water in sunshine.

Comfortable place to relax and sip any drink!

After lunch we drove to Cattunar Winery. It is beautifully located! We had an informative tour of their harvest and bottling process, plus to see their cellar with some very old wines. I love red wine; however, I did like the Malvazija white wine the Istrian peninsula is known for. Of course, we had delicious snacks with the 2 wines and a third sweet wine! Since the red wine has more tannins it was served with cheese and black truffles on the bread. What was not to enjoy!

I’ll be back tomorrow as it is our last day on Istrian peninsula and last day of tour before I am off as a solo traveler.

Here are a few more photos from this day:

Notice pointed ends of this boat which is only found here, called a batana.

Istrian Peninsula: Part 2 of 4, Pula, Croatia

May 25, 2026May 6, 2026Posted in blogging, history, Travel, writingTagged food, history, Local food, travel, wineLeave a comment

We drove about 50 minutes to Pula, the largest city and major port on the southernmost tip of the peninsula. Our guide explained the importance of this location was because it has a protected harbor. Now however you only see abandoned ship building projects and maybe small boat repairs. At once I realized how beautiful our 5 nights in Poreč is compared to staying in Pula.

However there is plenty of history here. Our first stop was at the Roman amphitheater built between 27 BC and 68 AD. It has all 4 walls intact and I was reminded of my first visit to Rome’s amphitheater. This one in Pula is one of the world’s six largest surviving Roman arenas. Centuries ago there were gladiator contests, now it is a tourist attraction and concert venue.

We also saw the Temple of Augustus built between 2 BC and 14 AD. He was the first Roman emperor and the temple was probably built during his lifetime.

The Venetians built the Kaštel Fortress/Pula Castle in the 14th century on the hilltop which provides great views of the city. After walking around the fortress, you can take an elevator to 2 lower levels with access to a network of tunnels. This was amazing to see as the tunnels are a good size and long.

Arch of the Sergii was another stop on our walking tour of Pula. This 1st century Roman triumphal arch was built and fully paid for by a family member to honor three members of their family.

So much history… and then we saw stone shelters. Many places you will find the dry wall stone construction, but seeing this stone shelter was fascinating!

Would be a challenge to build; only rock!

I’ll be back tomorrow, another town to visit.

Lake Bled, Slovenia and More

May 21, 2026May 5, 2026Posted in blogging, environment, history, Travel, writingTagged environment, history, Nature, travel, wildlifeLeave a comment

The water in Lake Bled at this time of year is simply beautiful. Here it is…

We drove from Ljubljana to Lake Bled through green countryside to arrive at this scenic spot. High above the lake, clinging to the rocky cliff, is an 800 year old castle which we visited.

In the middle of the lake is a 17th century church which we rode a pletna to get to it. A pletna is a boat similar to a gondola.

We had fantastic weather for this day trip as we climbed the steps to these locations and learned about this area’s history. We returned to Ljubljana by way of Radovljica for lunch and a walk through the town.

Back at Ljubljana we also had a snack … one that went to space! You may know the info about NASA astronaut, Sunita Williams, celebrating her heritage by bringing a traditional Carniolan sausage, kranjska klobasa, to the International Space Station in 2006. (Info is specifically on the sign.)

Yes, I got a chance to taste this sausage! It was delicious with a touch of mustard. Others added horse radish.

Or eat it with no condiment; the sausage is delicious!

The next day we cruised on Ljubljanica River, I visited with my Slovenian friend who I met in Naples, Italy a couple of years ago, and my fellow travelers and I had our farewell dinner. A few of us will now continue with a new guide for 5 nights as we explore the Istria area of Croatia and sleep in Poreč. I’ll be back in a few days. Look at this food in the photos below… so tasty!

My friend and I shared this cibanica… it has 4 layers: poppy seeds, curd cheese, walnuts and apples separated by filo (phyllo) dough. Light and delicious and was served warm.

We shared this also -jabolčna pita which is apple pie… yum!

Zagreb, Croatia … The Capital

May 15, 2026April 29, 2026Posted in adventure travel, blogging, environment, history, Travel, writingTagged blogging, environment, history, travel2 Comments

We walked the Lower and Upper Towns in this city which now has 800,000 people and close to a million people, if you consider the outskirts. The Upper Town has the cathedral and Lower Town was merchant area. The funicular, shortest in Europe, was not operating … maybe because it was Monday? Many museums were not open on Mondays too; however, I found time to enjoy a cup of cappuccino after one museum visit. There is definitely an Austrian-Hungarian influence here. I almost feel like I am in Vienna. If I had a piece of strudel with my cappuccino I would believe I was!

I stopped in at the Museum of Naïve Art. Sort of a strange name. “Peasant artists” were called “naïve artists” at one time when collection of their work, paintings and sculptures, began in 1952. These individuals had no formal art education/instruction but their work had a recognizable style and were collected. Eventually the museum’s name changed to what it is now.

Fellow travelers said the Museum of Cartoons was very good. Also the Museum of Broken Relationships was interesting. One story I heard is a broken relationship with gluten! See, relationships of all sorts are presented. Apparently the NYTimes wrote an article about that museum and there are people sending something and their broken relationship story to this museum.

Much reconstruction is happening in the city since the March 2020 earthquake. They are still working on the cathedral’s spires. The bells survived and are safely inside the cathedral at the moment.

We took a bus out to the city’s public cemetery and walked around. It is very expensive to be buried here, plus with an annual fee. It is huge but I loved being among the trees.

Back to the city where the red umbrellas are you will find an outdoor market. Underground is the market for all foods needing refrigeration. There I saw plenty of meats and cheeses!

Walk in crosswalk, bicyclists on red path.

Tomorrow we are at Plitvice Lakes. I am looking forward to our hiking time and hopefully to see some birds!

Life in Karanac, Croatia

May 13, 2026April 30, 2026Posted in blogging, environment, history, Travel, writingTagged blogging, environment, food, history, international travel, Nature, travel, wildlifeLeave a comment

We stayed at a “living history” farmstead in Karanac, a small farming village. Each property has a narrow front yard with a long depth of land. This is to their advantage since their property tax bill is determined by the frontage measurement. I liked the fact they have the road, then a strip of grass, sidewalk and then the front of the home. It makes for a spaciousness in the area even though this is a rural area already.

Upon our arrival we made cheese for the following morning’s breakfast. A plain cheese and the other was with dill and garlic. Learning the cheese-making process and eating our final products was wonderful.

The son is 8th generation on this land. He showed us the vegetable garden for home use and pointed out the chickens, quail, fruit trees, etc that they produce many products to barter and/or sell. The family works hard throughout the year. All is organic and they rotate their crops to keep their land healthy too.

Our cooking opportunities came in making fry bread for breakfast and learning how to make goulash in clay pots for lunch. All the food, consisting of meats, vegetables, cheeses, jams and bread, was delicious!

The mother of the household is a master at stenciling. With the advent of wallpaper, fewer people need to stencil an entire wall; however, with her work you would never realize this is not wallpaper. She has collected many rollers with patterns and is very well known for her stencil work!

Our lunch was enjoyed at another family’s home. A few of us had lunch with a couple. They have 4 children and work in a nearby town. We talked about taxes, healthcare, elder care and various other things. Interestingly, with each birth there is 3 years of leave allowed so this woman has maintained her work position even with the birth of 4 children. Yes, a large percentage from salary goes to these benefits. While they wish they could be lower, they do appreciate the ability to have the paid time, even if it be 70%, to provide care as needed.

The next day we have a long ride to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. I’ll be back in a few days!

Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina…Part 3 of 3

May 9, 2026April 30, 2026Posted in blogging, history, Travel, writingTagged blogging, food, history, travelLeave a comment

Today, residents in Sarajevo, Bosnia respect the varied religions in their city. I have heard the “Call to prayer” often, not all 5 times per day, but often. We stopped in at a Greek Orthodox Church and a Catholic Church.

Greek Orthodox Church. They do not sit in this church; they stand.

We visited the Tunnel of Hope, also called the Sarajevo Tunnel. The half mile tunnel was built in 1993 in 4 months, 4 days! It went under the airport and was used to bring in food and water to people in Sarajevo. The tunnel had systems to provide good air and lighting within the tunnel as supplies moved through by people and/or on a small cart on rails. More than 10,000 people were killed in this 3.5 year Bosnian War. This valley town was fired upon from the hills after the breakup of Yugoslavia.

Tunnel reconstructed to show what it was like.

We had a speaker share his perspective of the conflict between Serbians and Bosnians in the 1990’s. Then there were almost 30% Serbians, but now only 4% in this mostly Muslim city.

We had a home-hosted dinner with our host. Her cousin spoke English and translated for us. We ate a delicious soup with okra, a meal of meatballs and mashed potatoes and baklava for dessert. I learned that Muslims do not drink alcohol in their home.

Finally, a brief explanation of the 3 presidents, but truly if you are interested, read the 1995 Dayton Accord agreed upon in Dayton Ohio, USA. There is the information as to the collective presidencies that resulted in 3 leaders: 1 Bosnian, 1 Croat and 1 Serb based on ethnic representation in the whole state of Bosnia-Herzegovina. Each of the entities have a president, parliament, ministries… many people are involved in government. I cannot explain much more; please research it on your own, if interested.

We are returning to Croatia tomorrow. A long drive. I’ll be back in a few days.