After an hour’s drive from Puerto Varas, we took a ferry to Chiloé Island. It actually is an archipelago of 40 islands many miles south on the west coast of Chile. We headed to Castro, the major town in the middle of the 19 mile long island. The controversial bridge being built, since the 1970’s, is still not completely built. Locals seem to not want the bridge as they fear it will change the island vibe.
Everything operates on “island time” here, meaning nothing is rushed. Whether waiting for service or talking with a local, all will be accomplished eventually. It was a change of pace I enjoyed.
It was great seeing birds at Puñihuil Wildlife Reserve. To get closer to the reserve, were carted off to a boat in the water. Never got our feet wet! From there we boated near some rocky islands to view Humboldt and Magellanic penguins! We saw many other birds, plus a sea lion and 3 otters!
Notice the stand they pushed us out to the boat on!Humboldt penguinsSleepy sea lion!
We stopped at a market and saw some HUGE, truly huge garlic … size of my 2 fists! Eventually we got to the town of Castro and our hotel. Beautiful view of the bay, part of the Pacific Ocean, and in the distance we can see some houses on stilts.
We drove from Bariloche, Argentina to Puerto Varas, Chile. We made record time because the custom line between the two countries was short. Our hyper, funny guide had us leave early enough, 20 minutes before his usual time, to beat the crowd. Yeah! If we did not take this long drive and flew instead, here would be the 3 flights: Bariloche to Buenos Aires to Santiago, Chile to Puerto Varas!
Between the two countries, as we crossed the Andes Mountains from Argentina to Chile, the paved road becomes unpaved. There we entered “no man’s land” until we reached border patrol and checked in at Chile. Back on the once again paved road. Our Argentinian may be creating some of the stories versus his Chilean friends … but I do find them similar, yet different in personalities. Anyway…. Short drive to stop for lunch, sort of in the middle of nowhere, and a visit at an auto museum in Moncopulli. So many studebakers! And other vehicles and stuff!
We arrive eventually after this long day of driving at Puerto Varas, a town of 66,000 people with a fantastic view of a volcano! Look across Llanquihue Lake and see Osorno volcano. During our drive I learned: Chile is large exporter of tulips and salmon. Main industry is mining copper and lithium. Agricultural products are cherries, plums, potatoes and blueberries. The country imports gasoline and oil. There are 3,000 volcanoes with most active 14 volcanoes. They worry when the earthquake is over 8.0. Last major eruption was in 2011.
Some clouds at the volcanoWe did have clear views of the volcano.
We had a nice hike in Vincente Perez Rosales National Park. Weather was perfect for hiking as long as you dressed appropriately. Not a difficult couple of miles hike in a forested area. Loved the hike!
WaterfallOur local guide discussing the plants
We visited a music school for talented violin and other string students. The students performed for us. It was great to see these at-risk students receiving music and general education.
Our home-hosted dinner was with a lovely couple. He is a landscaper with 10 employees and she is a physical therapist. We were welcomed with a pisco sour, talked on many topics, made our own cheese empanadas and had corn stew for dinner. Delicious Carmenere wine and dessert. We were entertained with guitar playing and singing. It was a wonderful opportunity to meet local people and ask questions about any topic we wished. Always nice to hear from locals.
House constructed with freight containersHome-hosted meal with fun people!He and his wife were lovely!
Off to Chiloé Island. I’ll be back in a day or so.
Two hour flight from Buenos Aires to Bariloche, Argentina was informative as my plane neighbor was arriving in the area for a 3 day, 18 mile per day run or walk, and camp each night competition. He has been training for the past year; very excited to participate in the upcoming activity! And don’t you know, a few days later when we drove to Puerto Varas, Chile we see the runners. I knew exactly what they were up to!
Bariloche I loved! It is the “Gateway to Patagonia” or the “Gateway to the Lake District” and the “Heart of the National Park”. The national park has grown around this town… all of it beautiful! It reminds me of Park City, Utah, USA with the mountains, a walkable downtown with outdoor clothing and gear shops, restaurants and breweries. The architecture though reminds me of Swiss chalets and some refer to the town as the “Switzerland of South America”. True to what I remember of my 2013 trip in Patagonia, the wind is always blowing. Locals refer to little wind as no wind. I walked the lakeshore and did see a variety of birds!
Nahuel Huapi National Park is the oldest national park in Argentina, established in 1922 and reconfigured in 1934. Our guide mentioned Teddy Roosevelt encouraged people in Argentina to protect this land. Glad they did!
Bariloche on a huge lake and mountain scenery
We met with a Mapuche tribe member. Their love of the land and nature surely reminds me of many native tribes around the world. Unfortunately too are the atrocities they persevered. His message: dependent on the political system in power, then determined if they were considered human or not. Only then could some constitutional changes be made. Their fight continues; however, they also believe all native tribes are keeping the rest of the world in balance.
Mapuche tribal member and our guide translating.
Our local guide provided a demonstration of their drinking Yerba mate. The cup with metal straw in the mate and hot, not boiling water, was a refresher for me. I wondered if I had kept my cup from my past trip. What’s also fascinating is the Argentinians easily pass it from one person to another to drink the tea. Americans could never imagine sharing a drink from one cup with another person; I’m sure!
Yerba mate to drink
What fun! We had a horseback trail ride. Thankfully my horse knew where it was to go as I watched 2 European hare run off in the distance. This activity was part of a home visit. Our “home host” family was originally from Germany in 1850 and ranched 1000’s of acres of land. They were very generous with their time as we rode the horses, asked many questions about their life, and enjoyed a BBQ of lamb, beef and sausage… and delicious German-style potato salad!
Our home host wearing a “boina”
Another activity, another day, was a hike through a forested area to a viewpoint. It was wonderful to stretch our legs each day we stayed in this area. We saw a very expensive hotel as we looked down from the top of a hill. On another mountainside we took a chairlift up and down. Everywhere one looked, it was beautiful and the weather truly cooperated for us!
Simply beautiful!
We spend a good amount of time in Bariloche to enjoy meals… I did try wild boar which was tender meat, … chocolate and craft beer. We also had a speaker tell us about the Nazi war criminals caught decades later in Argentina. One was caught at the speaker’s school when she was just a young teacher. It was interesting to see the magazine and newspaper headlines as she told us the facts.
There are many universities in Bariloche. Universities provide free education for all. Brazilians come here to see the snow in winter. Argentinians go to Brazil for their beaches. Many Chilean school groups were visiting now on their summer vacation. Don’t come mid-May to mid-June as that is the rainy season. Also, look both ways when crossing the road, make eye contact with driver, as they don’t slow down otherwise!
Some of my fellow travelers floated the Limay River. I did not. My time was instead walking along the lakeshore. Many yellow-billed teal, 2 ashy-headed geese and a Patagonian tyrant were now new birds to my life list. How wonderful to also see some birds again: chimango caracara, neotropic cormorant, and black-faced ibis.
I’ll write again in a few days as we travel by land from Bariloche, Argentina over the Andes Mountains to Puerto Varas, Chile.
There are many places to stop and visit in Buenos Aires. It’s a large city. Of course I was always looking for birds. I did see a couple of new birds, but I’ll create a post regarding birds another time.
We visited the first public cemetery, 1822, which comprised only of mausoleums. There was no required style so it was interesting to look at them. Each mausoleum had steps down to where shelves held the individual caskets. Our local guide shared background info about a few of the inhabitants of some mausoleums and the “keepers” paid by families to maintain the mausoleum.
They all are deep into the ground, like this one being built.
There is a huge stadium in Buenos Aires! It seats 86,000 people and holds 100,000 people. Amazing! People from around South America come here for concerts. Popular musicians may perform for 4 -8 nights to many thousands in the audience.
Bookstore: a theater was transformed to a bookstore. Absolutely great use of a beautiful space!
Paraná Delta- is as large an area as metropolitan Buenos Aires! We took a boat ride and saw the houses built on stilts, with rocks or concrete wall in front,electrical lines, septic tank, gas tanks and Direct tv satellites. There is no drinking water, but if people put out their huge water containers, water is delivered. I noticed some places had multiple filters on water they were pumping to their property. There is a mail boat, supermarket boat and many people kayaking from place to place besides the tourist boats on the water. The delta is a huge, muddy area from what I can see, yet solid enough to have all these homes, church, schools, etc. Amazing!
In 2013, I saw the tango show, so I skipped it this time. But we had a tango lesson! The professional dancers were convincing as they said, “ If you can walk, you can do the traditional tango.” That statement may be debatable, but we had a good time!
Santiago can be walked if you are a patient person. I decided to walk to the Costanera Center, the tallest building in the city and maybe in South America. Next door was a five floor shopping mall. I had no interest in going to the sky deck bar at the very top of the center to see the entire city. I continued my walk to a Japanese Garden, an area of the huge city park.
Tallest building from Japanese Garden
The uphill walk to the Japanese Garden was worth it. Long and hot weather today. Soon it will be summer here. At the Japanese Garden you walk along paths passing quiet pools of water with lily pads, waterwheels, streams and sculptured trees.
More of the Japanese Garden
Very pleasant place as I also listened for birds. Another new bird: white-crested elaenia.
A new bird for me!
On my way down the hill, I interacted with employees putting up insect traps in fruit trees. Not knowing any Spanish on my part, my apologies to them, I photoed an information sheet so I could know what fly they are trying to capture.
So many places to eat in the city! I settled on my tour guide’s recommendation for a meal: pastel de jaiba… a crab cake … and as I write this, the electricity went out in one-third of the restaurant. I have my water, bread with butter and salsa, wine and meal so I am set… and then the electricity was back on! Unfortunately the chocolate cake has strawberry layer within, so glad I mentioned no strawberry please, so I’ll finish my wine with flan. Ah yes, I now remember that dessert is a South American staple!
Quite the crab cake meal!
I walked to Parque Bicentenario where hundreds of start-up tech and other companies had displays. Further along I spent time at a pond. Much to my surprise, I saw a plumbeous rail walking along the pond’s edge onto grass. Rails are typically hidden from sight. To see this one so easily was amazing!
Plumbeous rail
Two other birds were new to me: yellow-billed pintail and yellow-winged blackbird … a male and a female. I was happy to have my camera available for these observations.
Then I was looking at this next bird wondering is that a mockingbird? Yup.
Chilean mockingbird
Finally, I had been hearing the rufous-collared sparrow and the noisy monk parakeets. Now I had photos! My bird life list has grown by 8 new birds. Soon off to Easter Island in the mid-Pacific Ocean!
Rufous-collared sparrowMonk parakeet landed on the ground. Usually in the trees.
I’ll be back in a few days after I discover Easter Island!
Chilean wines were on my pre-trip checklist … all things to do before I leave home! I decided to try a couple Chilean wines. Will I enjoy the coastal to mountain range wines or enjoy those from the foothills of the Andes Mountains? Must do my research!
Two wines were purchased at our local Total Wine store. A 2022 Carmen Gran Reserva -cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc and a 2021 Vistamar Bordevalle Reserva – malbec. My taste buds love these wine tasting opportunities!
Carmen Gran Reserva
The Carmen Winery is the oldest Chilean winery, named in honor of the founder’s wife in 1850. The Gran Reserva wine has grapes grown in the Maipo Valley which boasts a Mediterranean-type of climate and soils with great drainage and moisture retention. It appears to be a valley south of Santiago. The company does have 4 other valleys where their grapes are grown. The Maipo Valley is large. I liked the wine; smooth, not acidic, and tasty. Wonder if I will find this wine while on my trip. No doubt, I will be looking for it!
Vistamar Bordevalle Reserva
The Vistamar malbec is an easy-drinking wine. Thanks to the grape originally coming from the Bordeaux region of France to South America in 1850. This Bordevalle Reserva comes from the Maule Valley located between the Pacific Coast and the Andes Mountain Range. This valley appears smaller than the Maipo Valley. This grape is often a blending grape. I recall my 2013 visit to Argentina enjoying a glass of malbec wine with each meal. Now I’ll try malbec wine in Chile also!
Yes, To Visit a Chilean Winery!
Is there ever a wine I did not enjoy? Yes; however, I am hoping to find more good wines to enjoy and sip with a meal each night on this trip! We will visit a Chilean winery, Cousiño Macul. I checked their website and was fascinated with their sustainability efforts. Their liquid industrial waste plant uses bacteria treatment so the waste is transformed into irrigation water. Compost converts organic waste into fertilizer. They recycle plastic, cardboard, glass, paper and aluminum with local facilities. The installed solar panels mitigate the annual emission of 200 tons of carbon dioxide into the air … equivalent to them planting more than 5 thousand trees. Besides wine tasting while visiting here, I will want to hear about these efforts.
More to learn though. I need to discover more about the Carménère grape since it is no longer produced in Bordeaux, yet more popular in Chile. Anyone know anything about that grape? Or Carménère wine? Let me know, thanks! In the meantime, I will try to find out while in Chile! “Chao”! … is the standard farewell, not “ciao” … lots to learn!:)
Beginning December 1, my travel blog on trip begins…😃… will write more often then… adiós!
Chile is a new country for me to visit! Argentina is smack-dab right next door to Chile, just look at the map below:
Argentina hugs Chile, or is the other way around!?!
My last adventure to this area of the world was a hiking trip in Argentina where I fell in love with the mountains near El Chalten. This trip I’ll be in the Andes again with an opportunity to visit more of the area: Easter Island, Chiloé Island, Torres del Paine and Iguassu (Iguazu) Falls from the Brazilian and Argentinian sides. When I was in Buenos Aires, so many years ago, Pope Francis was selected Pope … and the people of his church celebrated here! I also remember seeing tango dancing and on this trip I may even get a tango lesson!
Plenty of history to be learned, wildlife to view, UNESCO sites to visit, hikes to enjoy, wines, craft beer and food to taste, local and indigenous people to meet, and new birds for me to discover! Now for the adventure to begin!
I went for a walk to bird watch, stretch my legs, and see if any other interesting animals were at Agua Caliente Park this month. As I approached my usual walking path, I decided to change things up. Often walking the same direction, why not change it; I’ll walk in the reverse direction in the park.
My brain is wired in a particular way, no doubt reinforcing my habits. So I got thinking about myself as a right-handed person and how different it feels when I use my left hand for simple tasks. Now how would I feel to walk in the direction opposite from my usual path?
Birds seen!
Walking in the opposite direction on the paths I have walked a hundred times at this park was at first strange. My brain prompted me to stop every so often and determine where exactly I was on the trail and to assess some of my usual birding opportunities from the different angle. It was an interesting time to realize how simply changing the direction of my walk offered me a different perspective on my outing. I enjoyed the walk and will continue to change things up as my walks continue here in the coming months.
Have you ever changed things up? Were there any advantages or disadvantages to the change up? Maybe you were forced to do things differently from your normal routine, share if you wish.
Our backyard has had a couple of different lizards scurrying around and an occasional butterfly. I wish I could capture a photo of a butterfly! Red-tailed hawks have flown overhead, as do common ravens. The usual birds are at the feeders or in the trees. My October nature journal:
Three high school students were peering into the water’s edge and calling out to each other, “There’s long neck. Look how large he is. This is the second day seeing him.” I frequent this park and could not imagine what they were observing. And to name an animal, “long neck”? So I went to where they were standing and asked what they were looking at in the water.
It was a turtle with a long neck! Yup, good name! I mentioned I had never seen one in all the years frequenting this park. Many red-eared sliders were in the water too. They were the usual, and most numerous, turtles for us to see. This long-necked turtle was new to me!
I immediately used the Inaturalist app with a photo of the turtle to determine what it was we were looking at in this water. We discover it is a spiny softshell turtle. These students, who were visiting from New Hampshire, saw the turtle the previous day too. Yes, this was a new turtle for me too! The students also now aware of the Inaturalist app.
I enjoyed talking with the students. They would only be in Tucson another day but had hopes of seeing a javelina. Unfortunately they missed the parade of javelinas through our yard last month. And they will not see javelinas at the Grand Canyon where they will visit next. But they are having an educational Arizona visit in towns and parks around the state.
As I walked the park’s paths this month, I saw my first phainopepla. Of course the Gila woodpeckers were busy and noisy as usual. The vermilion flycatchers with their bright red color is easy to see, just as a northern cardinal that also tried to hide itself in some shrubs. Off in a distance on an electrical power pole I saw what first looked like a black vulture. I did not have my camera that day, but after talking with another birder, I decided it was a juvenile turkey vulture. Few wading ducks, only a couple of ring-necked ducks. About 17 different bird species are usually seen. Now I can keep my eyes open for the spiny softshell turtle too!
The harvest moon and hunter’s moon, the rain and rainbows, and migrating wildlife this month has been fascinating to observe. Here’s my October nature journal for Agua Caliente Park:
