Galápagos Islands offer a safe haven for wildlife, plus some wildlife you will only see on a Galápagos Island. As we walked the trails along an island’s shoreline or inland, we saw yellow land iguanas, marine iguanas, Sally lightfoot crabs, sea lions, Galápagos fur seals, giant tortoise, and Pacific green turtles all in the wild!
Sally lightfoot crabGalápagos fur sealsGolden raysMarine iguanaYellow land iguanas Giant tortoisePanamic cushion star
Many of my fellow travelers enjoyed snorkeling at various locations. That activity is not for me so I could only enjoy their information with some underwater photos and stories. Lots of fish and rays were seen, but the white-tipped sharks seemed to be their most unsettling observation. No harm done; it seems the 17 sharks or so may actually have been sleeping …. And apparently it is the black-tipped sharks one should be concerned about.
I spent time reading about Ecuador’s food, history, and what birds I may see in the Amazon and the Galapagos Islands. Ceviche (seafood “cooked” in citrus juice), humitas (similar to tamales, which I love), empanadas (also love the crescent-shaped pastry stuffed with meat or cheese and baked or fried), and whatever other foods I can try will be exciting! My snack food on the road is often Snickers. If I cannot find that candy bar, I am going to look for “Manicho”. This is to be a milk chocolate bar filled with peanuts. Sounds good…hope to let you know!
The birds in the Amazon will probably be scraping around the ground or high in the tree canopy. I am excited to hear the sounds at night of all the wildlife. But in the meantime, I started to very-roughly sketch a few birds I might see:
Great tinamou
Speckled chachalaca
Then I thought I could roughly sketch some birds I might see in the Galapagos. As I was reading some material I got caught up in a story about “Lonesome George”. I hope to hear more of it while on my trip.
Pinta tortoise
Galapagos birds were interesting to read about. Some are not shy around people! Unfortunately some are near threatened or endangered. Will definitely want to hear more about this concern!
Galapagos dove
Galapagos penguin
White-cheeked pintail
Galapagos flycatcher
Flightless cormorant
Blue-footed booby
Well who knows what we will see while we float around the Galapagos islands and step onto some. I hope I remember to chart the path we take around the islands and can enter some new birds onto my life list. I’ll be back in touch to keep you posted!
My travel begins in Quito, a city in Ecuador with a population close to 3 million people. It is the oldest South American capital, UNESCO World Heritage site. Quito is the second highest capital in the world at 9,350 feet. (There is debate about it possibly being the highest … check out LaPaz and Sucre, Bolivia for details.)
After my days in Quito, we will be in the Amazon rainforest. We follow that time with close to a week to visit the Galápagos Islands, another UNESCO World Heritage site! It’s a quick trip with plenty to accomplish while I am in Ecuador.
Quito was founded in 1534. I love old architecture, plus South American cuisine, so walking the city’s plazas will be fascinating! We’ll fly, then take a motorized canoe to a village in the Amazonian rainforest. There are 40 families at this village and my chance to learn about their shift to eco-tourism. We’ll return to Quito and fly to the Galápagos Islands. There we will board a small ship for 7 nights as we tour what we can on the islands. There are 13 islands; however, all is protected … including surrounding waters. With permission from the Galápagos National Park, our visits will be allowed on certain islands. They work to maintain low impact to the land, water and animals. No doubt, many other tourists will arrive and I’ll be looking for birds and giant tortoises!
I have begun my research of interesting Ecuadorian foods for me to try. Plus, places to visit and birds to look for while in the city, rainforest and on an island or two. It was Charles Darwin, a naturalist in the 1800’s, who first proposed the scientific theory of evolution through natural selection. Now I’ll have my chance to see finches, mockingbirds, tortoises and iguanas that prompted his conclusions!
I’ll keep you posted! Adiós!
Where am I going? I’m a map person!
While Columbia is to the north and Peru to the south of Ecuador, please know there are more countries in South America! This map is just a start for all to know where Ecuador is.
Where is quiet? Where is silence? When I walk in nature, I want to hear the sounds of nature and see the biodiversity in the area. I do not want to hear anything else, not even my foot steps. With practice, I have become a better stepper on and over various surfaces, so my footsteps are not heard. Bird songs, the wind, and sounds of nature are what I want to hear. I also love seeing the bird singing or pecking at a tree. The tree leaves moving with a breeze. A surprise croak, gurgle or splash is always a joy too! However, the opportunity to be in a quiet place away from modern life’s sounds is extremely rare. Some acoustic ecologists would even suggest quiet is on the way to extinction. I actually worry when there is silence on my walks; where did everything go?
Soon I will visit a village in Ecuador’s rainforest, part of the Amazon jungle. I have fond memories of my five days in Peru’s Amazon rainforest eight years ago. We heard and saw 100 birds in 5 days, other local wildlife, along with the hum of the village people’s daily lives. I am hoping for a similar experience while visiting a village with indigenous people in Ecuador’s rainforest.
Recently I read about camping in remote places in Ecuador. I suspect my travel will not be that deep into the rainforest, but time will tell! How wonderful it would it be to simply listen to the sounds of quiet in nature!
Extra note: This book may be worth checking out! Gordon Hempton’s One Square Inch of Silence: One Man’s Search for Natural Silence in a Noisy World. Hempton is an acoustic ecologist who has recorded natural sounds around the world for the past 4 decades.
Also … Hempton is co-founder of Quiet Parks International. The website is fascinating with audio from various places around the world so we can hear sounds of nature. Plus, I noticed there were places close to my home. Here they are:
Desert Mountain Quiet Conservation Area … the first to be awarded Quiet Conservation Area status by Quiet Parks International. It is located between Phoenix, Arizona and Tonto National Forest, but it is on private property. Hmmm… will need to research this further.
Anza-Borrego Desert State Park in southern California was awarded Quiet Conservation Area status too. I can really appreciate learning this information. A couple of months ago I was hiking some trails there and made a comment about how quiet it was. Little did I know then there was such a thing as “Quiet” status! And it is a state park … easy access for all with a day pass fee! Check it out if you are in the area!
Many places are being nominated; however, to receive an award there needs to be a guarantee of quietness, a huge hurdle for most of our planet! So, cherish the quiet you have in your life when you have it! There is no guarantee it will happen often.
Mother Earth is referred to as “Pachamama” by indigenous people. In 2008, the Ecuadorian Constitution recognized “ … the rights of Pachamama to maintain and generate its cycles, structure, functions and evolutionary processes”. Here was the “rights of nature” written into a constitution! Wow!
As a result of the Rights of Nature Movement, Ecuador has 9 nine national parks, including the Galapagos Islands. The goal of the movement is to recognize and protect ecosystems: rivers, forests, and to restore the connection between humanity and the environment. Ecuador has 25,000 plant species and 1600 known bird species.
I was fascinated learning about Mother Nature having the same rights as people while watching an Earthshot presentation on television. Spain, New Zealand and some USA local governments are also interested in reducing deforestation, protecting ecosystems, and have versions of that goal in their laws. More awareness is needed. If not for the “Rights of Nature” concept, then at least a realization this planet is our Mother Earth. We have no other place to go, in the foreseeable future, to escape our destruction of the land, air and water we need to survive.
Indigenous people have tried to protect their lands for centuries. They are our neighbors throughout the world. We might wish to protect the living world as they do too … with the belief animals and plants are equal to themself with the same rights as human rights.
I know some people reading this will probably wonder, what the heck!?! Same rights as humans? If you think about a plant and/or animal you eat, let’s say for discussion, corn and/or chicken. Do you not want to provide healthy soil/land, clean air and water for the corn and chicken to grow? They are the same rights you want for yourself … unpolluted land, clean air and clean water. Plus you’ll soon be eating that corn and/or chicken in some format of food.
It would be a gold standard if countries had it in their constitution; any actions to follow the “rights of nature” concept. In reality though, we each could speak up. Let’s require corporations, governmental agencies, businesses and each other to put our best effort into protecting Mother Earth. Younger generations wonder if we care about ourselves right now … yes, awareness is here, but actions need to be taken! We have one Earth … and we are here to care for all land, air and water now.
Thankfully I traveled the North and South Islands of New Zealand during this adventure to Australia and New Zealand. Oh how I wish New Zealand was not so far away! (And in fairness to Australia, I missed the west coast of that country … so who knows what the future may bring.)
Below is a map showing the travel done in New Zealand, then some of my sketches during this portion of the trip. Now to dream about next adventures whatever they may be! Anyone have any recommendations? My goal is to see the world so everything is on the table!
When I travel, I listen to the vernacular, the everyday words used by locals, such as when in Australia and New Zealand. For example, the title of this post: “I’ll shout you a lollie, mate.” For starters, I know you already know “mate” is how one can address anybody, but a “lollie” is a candy or sweet. When said, I’ll “shout” you, it means the person will treat you … in this example, to a sweet or candy. More often though it is more exciting when they’ll shout you a beer!
There were phrases helpful when meeting people:
G’day: good day to you
Kia ora while in NZ: meaning hello in Māori
No worries: okay, no problem
In Australia, I knew “outback” was a remote part of the bush, “bush tucker” their native foods, and “walkabout” a long hike in the outback. I was also interested in words used at farms/ranches. At various ranches, we saw sheep herded by dogs: Huntaways and Border collies, and I even saw a short-haired Border collie!
Border collie as I usually think of one
Short -haired Border collie
Sheep that were shorn: Romney and Merino. Food cooked on the “barbie”, yup, that’s BBQ.
Station: is the large farm or ranch; such as a sheep station; we visited a few.
Jillaroo: young woman on a station
Jackaroo: young man on a station
Damper: bread cooked in the outback, but with this rancher’s recipe for an oven.
Tucker: meaning food
Ute: their pickup truck
Jackaroo shearing a Merino sheep at a station in NZ
When you travel, especially when in countries that speak your language, do you heard unique phrases? Are you struck by other vocabulary used by people in the place you are visiting? Of course, the best way to say hello worldwide is always a smile, but do listen to words, accents, and phrases that may be new to you! It is all part of the travel experience … we don’t want everything to be like home!
Also notice landscape! Did you know there are salt flats north of Melbourne, south of Alice Springs in Australia? Australia is the size of the lower 48 USA states so flying was necessary for me in my travels there. Look out the airplane’s window …
Salt flat north of Melbourne, south of Alice Springs, Australia
Australia’s outback
BTW, If you are in my neighborhood, I will shout you a mug of beer or glass of wine, so let me know! G’day!
We crossed Lake Wakatipu from Queenstown on a historic steamship, TSS Earnslaw, to Walter Peak Station. The steamship was in service for 57 years and now used for pleasure cruising. (I will say for a person who easily gets motion-sick, the cruise across the lake was smooth and not a problem for me.) We arrived at the Walter Peak Station where our tour group had a buffet-style farewell dinner. Many other tourists were also here for dinner and just like us also for the “farm show”. This place is beautiful, in a lovely location and the dinner was delicious! I truly did get my fill of lamb meat at dinners on the New Zealand portion of my travels.
TSS Earnslaw Steamship
Coal was shoveled in to run the steamship.
Walter Peak Station … where we arrive!
Dinner … buffet-style and delicious food!
The “farm show”, included the shearing of a Merino sheep… happy to be rid of the warmth of the wool it was carrying on its body! Merino sheep are only sheared one time a year. It’s spring time here and this sheep was ready for a shearing! This man did a very professional job shearing this sheep!
Not one knick to the sheep!
The “farm show” continued with a short-haired Border collie and its owner demonstrating how the dog herds sheep simply by his voice commands. That dog can run! Before I knew it, the dog was running uphill to the peak and herding the sheep for their movement down the hill. It was truly impressive how the dog responds to the commands and the sheep were moved into a pen within 3 minutes. I wish you could have seen it!
Short -haired Border Collie
We had time to walk the property which included wonderful vistas, other animals and flowers, and lots of open space! I loved being able to absorb the beauty of it all, reflect on my time in New Zealand, and ready myself for the long flights home. Back on the steamship, we sang as the piano player banged out at least 30 different songs! It was fun, but I was also ready to go home!
Farewell New Zealand!
As my blog posts continue, I may think about specific incidents to share and write. I know I will hold many more memories than what has been written these past weeks. To travel “down under” to Australia and New Zealand had been life-long dream that has now been realized. I am fortunate and grateful to have been able to fulfill this dream. May I wish you the same with your dreams! Dream on!
New Zealand’s population is just over 5.5 million people, predominately on two main islands: North Island and South Island, yet technically it is made up of over 600 islands. Besides New Zealand’s beautiful landscape, I felt a beauty in their heart. I say this because there was recognition of Māori language in signage throughout the country and an appreciation of wild land and wild life.
To take one example, we stopped at a bird sanctuary. Notice the languages on the sign:
Notice languages and the bird
Punanga Manu o Te Anau … Te Anua Bird Sanctuary … has the only surviving population of takahē, a flightless bird once thought extinct. They were rediscovered in 1948 in the Murchison Mountains nearby. The once captive breeding program hand-reared the chicks; however, now eggs are left on the nest for the adult takahēs to rear.
Takahē bird
New Zealand’s goal is to be predator-free of rats, stoats and possums by 2050. Currently they have more than 110 predator-free islands so native species can thrive. Unfortunately it was human-introduced pests that preyed on the island’s wildlife causing some to go extinct. Now New Zealand works to get its native wildlife back by 2050.
I also appreciate the effort by New Zealanders to include Māori language on signage throughout the islands. While this may seem a small thing, Māori are the second largest ethnic group in the country, at almost 18%, and deserve recognition, especially as travelers visit the country. I understand efforts continue to acknowledge the history of this country as we, in the USA, have similar work to complete with our Native Americans. May the work continue to save and respect wild and human life.
Rotorua is an easy town to walk around. I stopped at jade stores, saw a carver meticulously working on a jade piece, enjoyed seafood chowder for lunch and continued my walk through the Government Gardens to Sulphur Point where I spent some time birding; saw 5 new birds! I thought about a dip in the thermal waters at a spa, but not so much fun by oneself; another time. We did attend a dinner, cultural program and geyser-viewing at TePuia before leaving this town.
Before we caught our afternoon flight from Rotorua on the North Island of New Zealand to Christchurch on the South Island, we stopped at a Redwood Forest. The interesting thing about the trees is they grow so fast they have a pithy interior so the wood is of no value. Well the trees have been left to grow anyway and now it is quite a recreational area for walkers, runners, tree-walking activity and a zip-line at the canopy level. I could have spent hours walking the trails here.
Another stop we made the previous day and worth mentioning, since I had not told you, Rotorua is a geothermal area. There are bubbling mud pools, geothermal geysers and steaming vents. You will see steam rising in various places, even at gutters at the road’s edge, and wonder at first if it is smoke, steam or soon to be a rainy day.
Flying into Christchurch
Finally we arrived in Christchurch, organized at the hotel and spent time in the city center. In 2010 and 2011, Christchurch experienced devastating earthquakes. The city has been re-building its English-influenced beauty. We walked around the town with its large Botanic Garden, Avon River, shops and museums and convention center.
Avon River in Christchurch
Many murals in Christchurch, this is just one.
While in Christchurch we also drove about an hour west to visit a sheep farm. Chris and Del actually care for 3,000 of their neighbor’s Romney sheep, along with their own dogs, alpacas, goats and horses, etc. Chris provided a demonstration of how the Border Collie can move sheep from one location to another. Then how their Huntaway dog moves the sheep more quickly into the pen. I never realized the Border Collie doesn’t bark and with Chris he has trained it to follow voice commands, not whistles. The Border Collie knows how to slowly move the sheep forward, left or right. The Huntaway dog does bark and is more aggressive and trained to follow Chris’ direction as he wants that go to move the sheep along quickly and into the pen. He trained these dogs with lessons 5-10 minutes in morning and night for a couple of years. He has found dogs that simply do not want to learn and therefore they are not herding dogs.
Chris and Del also have alpacas and photos were fun to see as the one alpaca was hugged by the person and another alpaca laid its head on the person’s shoulder. Romney sheep are shorn 2 times per year, March and August; Merino only one time per year, and alpacas only one time per year. Chris demonstrated shearing a sheep; not as fast as the professionals they have in to do the shearing, nor as fast as the individuals who win contests at 30 seconds per sheep! BTW, another new bird was heard…New Zealand bellbird …beautiful song.
View from Rubicon Valley- sheep shearing place
We had a delicious lunch here before we left for Christchurch. Once back in town, I took a short walk to the Transitional Cathedral (often called “The Cardboard Cathedral”) which was erected soon after the earthquakes since the 1905-built cathedral was damaged. That cathedral is still not re-built. So for about 5-6 million New Zealand dollars, a Japanese architect and local firm, built this Anglican cathedral from 24 inch-diameter cardboard tubes (98 of them), timber and steel with a poly carbon roof and 8 shipping containers forming the walls. Pretty remarkable as it stands so many years later.
We are off to Dunedin … further south on the South Island of New Zealand.
