If you know anything about me, you know I love the Grand Canyon, specifically the national park area. It is a joy for me to see others looking over the south rim marveling at such a beautiful sight. Or times when looking into the dark sky, curious about the sparkling stars and planets. Once again we were at the Grand Canyon National Park in winter, last month, with no snow! I was so ready for snow. With every warm bit of clothing: my boots, gaiters, poles, Yaktrax, alpaca hat … but still no snow! Don’t get me wrong, it was very cold! So much so, I was hoping the water in my backpack bladder did not get cold!
Sunrise at the south rim of the Grand Canyon
After seeing the rim exhibits and 2 films at the visitor center, we took a hike. We hiked down the South Kaibab Trail to Ooh Aah Point! The majority of my times on this trail have been in the snow. So when not in the snow, I am always surprised how deep some steps are. Of course along with hikers, there are also mules carrying freight on this trail. Hooves do dig in to the trail, like the rest of us.
Ooh Aah Point is a .9 mile downhill hike. As they always say, going down is optional, whereas hiking back up is mandatory! How long will it take to hike back up? Double your time going down as the answer to how long it will take you to return to the rim. Remember, water and sun protection for your skin and eyes is important all year-round. It’s a great hike to take if you have a few hours to enjoy the canyon.
By the way, watch BOTH films at the visitor center!
Kanab, Utah to Grand Canyon’s North Rim is a short drive. No campsite reservation was available at the north rim, but I secured one night in the Jacob Lake area. Before driving to the rim, I walked the mile from my campsite to the store at Jacob Lake. There I purchased my favorite snickerdoodle cookies. More about cookies later. On my walk, I saw some birds and a Kaibab squirrel which is only found in this area.
Kaibab Squirrel, only found north of the Grand Canyon
After an hour’s drive from the campsite, I arrived at Point Imperial; perfect. I spent time walking at the highest point of the Grand Canyon, 8,800 feet. I decided not to drive the additional 19 miles to Cape Royal. At the north rim, the Bright Angel Point Trail was closed for the season due to repairs. Looking across the canyon is grand! Unfortunately though, there was a wildfire just west of the Hermit’s Trail on the south rim. It was actively burning while the one on the north rim by Widforss Trail had been extinguished. Lightning caused the fires and both were a distance from where any hikers would be on a trail.
While standing at the north rim, I am thinking how I have seen the canyon from many angles the last 20 years. I have hiked the South Kaibab Trail to Phantom Ranch, stayed overnight at the lodges, dorms, and camping near Phantom Ranch with a return hike on the Bright Angel Trail often. Time at the canyon’s bottom has been enjoyed with friends and first-time visitors on our tours. Short sections of the Grandview and Hermit’s Trail have also been hiked. Even some trails on the north side of the Colorado River from Phantom Ranch. There are so many more trails for me to discover. For now I will enjoy the north rim view of the canyon.
Bison seen as you drive from the north rim late in the day.
The south rim of the Grand Canyon has more visitors due to it close proximity to larger cities with airports: Phoenix and Las Vegas. A different vibe exists at the south rim compared to the north rim. I always encourage people to visit both rims, if possible. It is at least a 4 hour drive between the two areas. There is less lodging at the north rim and it is not open year-round; therefore, plan their visit.
In the past, I camped at the Desert View Campground on the eastern side of the canyon. This time, Mather Campground. It is central to all at the south rim of the canyon. Hop the shuttle bus and be transported in short time to many points of interest. I like this campground.
Today, while 75 degrees at the start, I hopped on my bicycle for a ride to the town of Tusayan, located outside the park. It was a 5 mile ride on a well-maintained bike path through Grand Canyon landscape … saw an elk relaxing … then national forest land, and finally into the town. I loved the downhills! Some of the uphills in combination with the altitude, about 8,000 feet, were not as enjoyable. I dug deep to complete the ride! It was fun and done before it was too hot, 90 degrees.
Loved the bicycle ride to Tusayan while it was cool.
Despite drinking water with electrolytes, I needed to drink more. So at my campsite I read a book, ate a snack and hydrated. Even though it was an eleven mile bike ride, my body needed it all. Took time then for lunch and organized for attending afternoon ranger talks. As I write this, I hear thunder. I am wondering if we’ll have the same weather pattern as yesterday. Last night it rained; so I guessed no sky astonomer-in-residence program. Tonight hopefully a clear sky … time will tell.
I attended the sky program along with about 75 other people! The astronomer-in-residence is only here for a month so Ranger Rick was our astronomer guide this night. He herded all of us a short distance in the dark with red light on the headlamps to an empty parking lot. There people spread out, laid on the ground, and listened to him. He pointed with his green laser light at and named specific constellations. He was often interrupted as people oohed and aahed when meteorites entered the atmosphere and streaked across the sky. Wow, what a dark sky!
I appreciated all the info about the big and little dippers, Polaris and other constellations. Ranger Rick pointed out the Milky Way. I had not ever thought about it being around the entire planet. Grand Canyon International Dark Sky Park meets requirements and every 5 years needs to apply again for the designation. I will not go into the details here, but work is done to make the national park darker. The majority of the light affecting the park is city glow from Las Vegas … 150 miles away! For more info, check the dark sky website.
The monsoon rains arrived each afternoon and by dinnertime we had cool, fresh air. Many of us enjoyed a late afternoon walk in Grand Canyon Village, along the rim, or in the campground. The majority of the people visiting the Grand Canyon lately are non-English-speaking people. I met a family from South Africa who lived in Texas and now live in Alberta, Canada. Many visitors are on tours and staying in the lodges at the rim while others have rented camper vans or camping in tents. Another couple, travelled across the USA to Flagstaff on Amtrak and then the train from Williams to the Grand Canyon. Often I find myself talking with people as I offer to take a group photo for them. The rim trail was busy with people which was why I chose not to ride my bicycle on the section bicycling is allowed. A few walkers made me nervous as they would step off the trail, close to the edge of the rim. Obviously they have not read the book, Over The Edge: Death in Grand Canyon by Michael P. Ghiglieri and Thomas M. Myers about how accidents can even happen at the rim’s edge!
If you are a reader and love the Grand Canyon, a more fun book to read, or listen to the author read, is A Walk in the Park: The True Story of a Spectacular Misadventure in the Grand Canyon by Kevin Fedarko. I just finished listening to it while I was at the canyon and learned new things about the history of the canyon.
If you have never been to Grand Canyon National Park, add it to your travel list. You will not be disappointed seeing this amazing landscape … it’ll be the biggest and most beautiful hole in the ground you’’ll ever see in the world!!
View from Navajo Point of the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon from the south rim.
Notice the Bright Angel Trail zigzagging down into the canyon!
Every time we visit Grand Canyon National Park, specifically the south rim, we admire the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) work. These workers arrived, often in six month stints, from May 29, 1933 till 1942. Their beautiful work can be seen throughout the north rim, south rim and at Phantom Ranch within the canyon.
At the south rim though, there is one heart-shaped rock we always look for in the El Tovar area. Nestled within a wall of rock and concrete, we always find the heart-shaped rock. A story, which I actually do not know if it is true, tells of a young CCC man placing that rock, during the wall’s construction, in a place where his girlfriend will eventually see it! I like the story so I stay with it.
Heart-shaped rock; have you seen it?
On our most recent visit to Grand Canyon National Park, we found the rock and I saw a man and woman almost about to walk past the rock. I thought, these people need to know about the wall and this heart-shaped rock, no matter if the story is true or not. So I called them over and asked if they see the rock.
Yes, indeed they do now see it, thanks to it being pointed out! I asked if they would like their photo taken by the rock. As they agreed and handed me their camera, they shared with us they had recently gotten married! Congratulations … Perfect I thought while making sure the heart-shaped rock was visible between the two of them!
You can look through Angel’s Window at Cape Royal Point to see the Colorado River at the bottom of the Grand Canyon! Wow, the river and the scenery is spectacular!
If you drive from the Grand Canyon’s north rim main lodge directly to Cape Royal Point it will take about 45 minutes. But I believe you would stop at vistas along the way; the scenery is beautiful! Or, maybe you will drive to Cape Royal Point and stop at scenic spots on your return. Can do!
Once at the parking lot at Cape Royal Point, you will walk a short trail to Angel’s Window. At some points along the trail you can see the Colorado River framed by the rock window. Walk along the main trail further and you are at Cape Royal Point with views of the canyon. Quite honestly, you need to visit since no photo will really do it justice! What are your plans for next year? Add in a stop at the Grand Canyon’s north rim, but realize it is only open May to October if the weather cooperates.
Look closely at people walking the trail above the window.
From another point, photo was taken through the window to the Colorado River below.
Point Imperial has the highest elevation on the north rim of the Grand Canyon at 8803 feet. You’ll drive north from the north rim’s main lodge on the park road and turn east onto Cape Royal Road. After some miles of driving, you turn left and this road takes you to Point Imperial … lodge to point is 11 miles and about a 25 minute drive.
There is a huge parking area, a picnic area and a short trail with scenic vistas overlooking the Painted Desert and the eastern end of the Grand Canyon. Here are some photos from that trail:
Point Imperial vista point
Scenic view from Point Imperial
Some people were picnicking, volunteers were collecting native seeds, and I was time bird-watching. I saw 11 different species of birds. Here are a couple of bird photos:
Western bluebird
Pygmy nuthatch
Back on the road our next stop, and blog post, will be at and about the end of the road at Cape Royal and Angel’s Window … 17 miles from Point Imperial to Cape Royal Point, taking about 35 minutes to drive. However, you may also stop at other vistas along the way as we did and the drive then is longer, but all wonderful to explore and enjoy! Do so, since who knows when you’ll ever return!
Grand Canyon National Park is visited by millions of people on the south rim and only by thousands of people on the north rim. We often visit the south rim in the winter when there are fewer visitors. The north rim is only open from May till October each year as it is 1,000 feet higher in elevation and facilities are not winterized as they are at the south rim. This year the north rim did not open till July due to heavy snow and water pipeline issues.
Wow, what spectacular sights of the canyon from the north rim! No words can adequately describe it so I have included photos. Hiking the short Bright Angel Point trail is a must for everyone, unless you are concerned about edges and altitude. If so, then hang out on the back deck behind the main lodge to catch canyon views from there.
A view from Bright Angel Point trail
A storm is moving in!
Another must-do is to drive the Cape Royal Road. Plan at least 3 hours to drive its length and stop along the way. I cannot imagine not stopping at Point Imperial, the highest point at 8803 feet, on the north rim. Here you can view the eastern end of the Grand Canyon. Continue your drive, stopping at various vistas along the way to the end of Cape Royal Road where you can hike to Angels Window.
Our favorite vista was Roosevelt’s Point where we hiked the trail. Each vista has something different to check out. As a result 3 hours may not be enough time for your visit, so start early in the day to make this drive and to enjoy all the views. We were on the road by 9:30am and back to the main lodge on the rim at 3:30pm to enjoy a beer we bought at the saloon. A great day!
A grand view!
We walked all the way out to this edge at Roosevelt Trail.
Another day, another trail!
We had never hiked the Transect Trail so we checked it out on another day. It is an easy trail except we got caught in a monsoon rain storm and spent time at the campground’s general store. Our plan was to hike the Bridle Trail back to the main lodge area. Fortunately a very kind couple drove us back the short distance and we did not have to be on the muddy trail in the pouring rain. (We had our raincoats, snacks, water and wore low hikers, but we would have been drenched … we appreciated the ride!)
Transect Trail
Deer on the trail
Storm heading our way!
We stayed in a frontier cabin. There are larger cabins available called the western cabins. Reservations need to be made ahead of your visit. Even the campground is fully booked. Dinner reservations are needed, but not for breakfast or lunch at the main lodge. We enjoyed some ranger programs and watching the rain, thunder and lightning storms roll across the canyon. It is important to be hydrated and to know the weather prediction as you do not want to be caught out on a trail unprepared! Someday I hope you visit the north rim of the Grand Canyon!
It’s now winter! We beat the closure of Interstate 40 in northern Arizona. We were already relaxed in a warm Maswik Lodge room at Grand Canyon National Park. Driving the interstate highway the previous day was a breeze. We were ahead of the snow storm that eventually caused the highway’s closure.
Coming to this national park when fewer people visit is what is best about the winter season. Unfortunately Covid is still in the air so facial masks are required in every building. Due to less staff and various supplies, we did find some restaurants with limited menus. We were here for the beauty of the place, so we were okay with how things were at the moment.
It is easy to spend 4 winter days here. We walked many parts of the rim trail. We stopped in at the art exhibit at the Kolb Studio and the geology museum. I do not think we missed any shop on the rim either. At Desert View we climbed the watchtower to see the eastern end of the canyon. Then we drove all the way to the western end at Hermit’s Rest to walk the rim trail. Meals were eaten at the historic El Tovar, Bright Angel Restaurant and AZ Steakhouse.
The day of our arrival there was no snow, but overnight the winter snow came! Unfortunate for those on the highway, but we woke to at least 6 inches of snow! Mule deer and elk were walking about during our visit. We bundled plenty of clothing layers on our body … it was cold weather! This was our 4 days of winter before returning to southern Arizona where we rarely see snow at our doorstep. It was a wonderful winter!
Is visiting Grand Canyon National Park on your list of places to travel? I hope so! Everyone should see this place at least once in their life. The biology, geology, anthropology and ecology of the area would be appreciated as one sits at the canyon’s edge. To view miles of territory discovered many years ago and still today there are many places where a human foot has not walked upon the land. Be sure to visit someday.
Many park visitors enter Grand Canyon National Park from its southern entrance. Arriving from the east gate entrance recently was a nice change of pace even for me who has visited this park often. One can spend time at the Desert View tower and see more of the Colorado River from the various viewpoints along the road eventually leading to Grand Canyon Village 20 miles to the west. The village area was congested with traffic and people and so I drove through and will save it for another time. I was glad to spend more time on the eastern end during this visit.
In 2014, Grand Canyon was designated as a Globally Important Bird Area. It is a flyway for hawks. From Lipan Point to the north rim of the park many birds go from forest to forest crossing an eight mile distance. On this visit, I saw violet-green swallows, ravens and black-throated gray warblers. Other times I have enjoyed seeing condors, mountain chickadees and other birds.
Here are photos from Grand Canyon National Park:
Black-throated gray warbler
You arrived at the railing, now look past it!
Many people ride those rapids!
Just past east gate entrance is Desert View Tower, worth a visit … plus the views!
Leaving the park, elk were crossing the road so motorists need to be aware of wildlife on the road! I loved the elk sitting roadside watching all the action!
Again, if you have never been to Grand Canyon National Park add it to your list of places to see sometime in your lifetime! Come visit and enjoy nature! Remember, there is a south rim and a north rim to visit, but it takes a few days to accomplish that even if you are hoping to drive to both. Of course, there is also time to be spent down at the river whether on a river trip, hike or mule ride to Phantom Ranch, or backpacking to Bright Angel Campground. Hopefully when Covid-19 is history, we will be able to get back to enjoying those options.
